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Didn't really think about it, but probably should have replaced it when I replaced the heater core. Oh well, next time!

Thanks for these awesome pictures. This is one area of my car that I have not dared to venture. These pics take the mystique out of the blower/heater core.

Well, I changed my blower motor yesterday. removing the fan cages was not that bad as they simply twisted off (well, not simply as it took some time but it worked). The heater blower motor resistance that I received was a different one so I couldn't replace it. It is a pain to reach it and right now is just hanging in there since I have to go back in to put the correct one. Putting it back where it belongs might prove an exercise in patience as you don't have direct line of sight. I had a small mirror just to see it! As for the motor, i bought the cheaper Bosch motor only for about $60 bucks and it was exactly the same so that was the easy part (plus working outside at 35ºF wasn't that pleasant). I took a quick look at the heater valve (for the E46 valve update) but since I didn't had the bit and pieces needed for the hoses decided against it.

Just got a new blower motor resistor from Pelican, as I get white smoke from the old one on low settings, as a result of all the litter that's got in there over the years..

Based on this link (which should be a sticky) http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=40211 I took the heater blower motor out and was able to feel the resistor so think it can be changed from under the hood and was planing to try today.... The pictures on this thread will be quite a help - thanks.

Bentley chapter 21 page 6 suggests need to remove heater to change the resistor pack, which needs the A/C to come out first, so it's out of the question.

i have weaseled that thing out without removing all of that. i just removed the blower motor and felt around in there by hand until i found it and was able to get it free. i did get a few scratches and cuts on my hand doing so but it saved a lot of time in not dismantling the car.

Changed it - took about an hour, most of which was taking off the obstacles and blower motor. I was surprised how easy it was. Thank you everyone who has posted. Motronic - your hint to pull the resistor pack forwards is what made the job easy - thank you very much. The set in the wires guided the pack back to its location.

The reason for the smoke on settings I and II was a lot of seeds from nearby trees getting into the air intake and onto the resistors through the large holes in their surround, and smouldering on the hot resistors. Might have cleared if I'd been brave enough to let them just burn out, but I didn't want to risk a fire.

I'm really hopeful the new resistor pack will fix my surging fan. The old pack doesn't look too bad...



Being able to stand in the engine bay makes this fairly easy. Now that I've done it, I'm pretty sure I could do it with a motor in the car... as long as I removed the fuel-cooler lines to fully get the firewall cover out of the way. The pictures above were essential in enabling this... you have to be able to have a clear picture in your minds-eye to do this.

Here's another pic:

If your fan's bearings are good this should fix the surge. This is pretty much what would be considered going "balls deep" into the car
Post whether or not it fixes if you would please.

cek wrote:I have to do this on two cars. Thanks for the great pics.

Found this old thread and really appreciate the pictures. I just removed and replaced the resistor by reaching through from the engine compartment. All by feel and a pain for sure, but still better than disassembling the console and heater box.

cek wrote:I'm really hopeful the new resistor pack will fix my surging fan. The old pack doesn't look too bad...

FWIW, it didn't fix it. I still have the problem, which leads me to believe it's the switch....

cek wrote:

cek wrote:I'm really hopeful the new resistor pack will fix my surging fan. The old pack doesn't look too bad...

FWIW, it didn't fix it. I still have the problem, which leads me to believe it's the switch....

What do you mean by "surging"? Before I fixed it in my 535is, the heater blower didn't run at all most of the time when the switch was on I or II, but it would suddenly start blowing for a few seconds at random times. I replaced the blower motor and now it's fine.

Update question:

I just recharged AC and replaced both fans, a few years ago.
The main issue is that when top blower is going the resistor gives off an overheated smell on the "low" fan setting — #1. So, I only run it on #2 or #3. I would like to have it going full time on #1

Does it really need replacement? Would replacing fix the issue? Just about everything else works OK, I'm tempted to just leave it alone…