MyE28.com

If you don't use the sunroof, it will break. The key is to clean the hell out of it and use it regularly. Mine worked great but I didn't use it for about six months and it is at the point where I'm not touching the front panel except for vent until I have time to clean it all. All of my hatch wiring worked on both, except defrosters which is of everything in the car, the one thing I need most often.

wkohler wrote:If you don't use the sunroof, it will break. The key is to clean the hell out of it and use it regularly.

I could not agree more.

Guess I better go exercise wifey's.

I hope by 'use it regularly', venting the front part is adequate?

I rarely do more than that unless the kids are with me. Then I cross my fingers as I slide the rear one forward by request...

Always works, but I probably should at least clean and grease it though.

Anyhow, your car looks great, thanks for 'saving' it!

That's not adequate. In fact, most broken sunroofs still vent.

Karl Grau wrote:Cool! It looks like the pictures were taken with my special Ebay/Craigslist camera though.

Nope... the camera does it justice.

wkohler wrote:That's not adequate. In fact, most broken sunroofs still vent.

mine only vents water into the cab.

Clean the rocker drains along with the sunroof drains. I even slash cut the ends of the tubes where they dump into the rockers, but I may go ahead and extend them out to the outside of the car.

It's been a while since I've updated, but the S50/5spd swap has been completed for about a month.

The car is pretty amazing. The S50 and 5 Speed make an even bigger difference than I thought and the exhaust (540i resonator and magnaflow) absolutely roar at about 4,500-5,500 RPM.

I've still got work to do. The H&R spring/Bilstein Sports on Staggered M-Parallels look nice, but the front needs to be about 3/4" - 1" lower. I need to fix the sunroof, finish the headliner, get some smilies, an M-Tech wheel, brake upgrade, sport seats, front chin/airdam. roof rack, etc.

Sweet. The S50-5/speed is the drivetrain they should have put in these cars to start with. Just enough power.

Look at some Lowtec springs. Schmeidmann carries them and they're pretty inexpensive but I like them. Have had them on two cars. They make a 60/40 for the touring. I've also got a set of smilies. Never could work up the courage to install them. They come with an HID kit for the lows.

This thread never disappoints

Get smileys and euro trim next - changes the look completely!

I can prescribe some m-tech bumpers front to back (M5 would be best, I always believed that the front M-sport bumper works better on wide grilles) and some m-mirrors.

If you really want to drop the car Vogtlands will be the lowest spring you can get. But you pay the price of harsher ride. You still haven't driven my E34.

My car sits lower than Vogtland cars do.

I have been trying to get a set of M5 bumpers since 2010. No luck.

I'll have several smileys in a week or so. We've talked about seats already. I know of a complete e34 m5 'aero package' for sale front (is brand new never painted), rear used, brand new skirts with install templates.

I miss orient blue.

Well, I need to get rid of my set, and they're available now. Lol.

wkohler wrote:Well, I need to get rid of my set, and they're available now. Lol.

there you go...

it's priority number 50 for me now anyway, so I can wait 4 years too.

They're definitely out there, but everyone selling them seems to be either a dick or a flake or selling a whole car. The perfect set came up but I'd have to buy a whole car they didn't belong on all the way across the country. I have such a hard time with E34 parts. They made so many black M5s. I've got black touring. should be easy.

I need a new M5 rear bumper. Mine sucks.

Such a white person problem.

wkohler wrote:Sweet. The S50-5/speed is the drivetrain they should have put in these cars to start with.

Yes.

It's an Alpineweiß III problem for me.

clear tails...

rewired the hatch this weekend and can now use the glass...but shocks are shot. they look like a pain in the rear to get to.

dolomiti wrote:clear tails...

rewired the hatch this weekend and can now use the glass...but shocks are shot. they look like a pain in the rear to get to.

Glass shocks are a 15 min job.

dolomiti wrote:clear tails...

rewired the hatch this weekend and can now use the glass...but shocks are shot. they look like a pain in the rear to get to.

I read (as I need to do my glass shocks) you can get some pipe, conduit works well, that the shocks just fit inside. Disconnect the shock at the glass, slip the pipe over it, and use the leverage to pop it off. Install is the reverse of removal.

I just found my rear defrost quit working since I bought mine.

slammin_e28 wrote:

dolomiti wrote:clear tails...

rewired the hatch this weekend and can now use the glass...but shocks are shot. they look like a pain in the rear to get to.

I read (as I need to do my glass shocks) you can get some pipe, conduit works well, that the shocks just fit inside. Disconnect the shock at the glass, slip the pipe over it, and use the leverage to pop it off. Install is the reverse of removal.

I just found my rear defrost quit working since I bought mine.

Yes. Thinwall conduit is perfect for the job.

Greg E34 wrote:

slammin_e28 wrote:

dolomiti wrote:clear tails...

rewired the hatch this weekend and can now use the glass...but shocks are shot. they look like a pain in the rear to get to.

I read (as I need to do my glass shocks) you can get some pipe, conduit works well, that the shocks just fit inside. Disconnect the shock at the glass, slip the pipe over it, and use the leverage to pop it off. Install is the reverse of removal.

I just found my rear defrost quit working since I bought mine.

Yes. Thinwall conduit is perfect for the job.

slammin_e28 wrote: I just found my rear defrost quit working since I bought mine.

Dat wiring harness...

dolomiti wrote: rewired the hatch this weekend and can now use the glass...but shocks are shot. they look like a pain in the rear to get to.

Just the I've been looking for.