Helppp

Post by **Brad D.** » Feb 13, 2013 9:05 AM

I had a bearing go out on an M30 WP. I watched the pump wobble around until it locked itself solid. Pretty cool to see it happen (true story).

Then I got in the car and drove home.

Post by **tsmall07** » Feb 13, 2013 9:06 AM

gidgaf wrote: there's a hole in the bottom of the casting itself.

They all have that. It's a weep hole for when the seal/bearing fails. That's how you know your WP is bad.

Frybrid 524td · Post by **Frybrid 524td** » Feb 13, 2013 10:36 AM

tn535i wrote:I think the OP needs help to solve for x.

We've already hit our math thread quota for the week. Please don't derail this thread.

gidgaf · Post by **gidgaf** » Feb 13, 2013 8:52 PM

Umm, no,
This is in the flange- the part that bolts to the engine.
I'll find it, and post a picture.

Waay back in my olde Chebby days, if'n we found a leaky weep hole we'd sometimes stick a zerk fitting in there. Pumped full of grease, that pump would last at least a week or so. At least until you got to a weekend that didn't end in "rent".

freetoride · Post by **freetoride** » Feb 13, 2013 11:27 PM

I couldn't tell exactly which oil light the OP was speaking of......... could it have been the oil level warning?

MrHill · Post by **MrHill** » Feb 14, 2013 12:06 AM

freetoride wrote:I couldn't tell exactly which oil light the OP was speaking of......... could it have been the oil level warning?

Yes the oil level warning. Up by the rear view.
Got the WP out. It was crap. Althought the damn fan was locked up on it. Left it at the shop soaking the threads. Hopefully more luck getting it off tomorrow.
All of the belts look fine but I will be replacing them, except the timing.
Oh. The tensioner spring,I believe I know which way it goes but am not sure. Could someone post a picture?

Post by **Brad D.** » Feb 14, 2013 8:56 AM

MrHill wrote:
freetoride wrote:I couldn't tell exactly which oil light the OP was speaking of......... could it have been the oil level warning?
Yes the oil level warning. Up by the rear view.
Got the WP out. It was crap. Althought the damn fan was locked up on it. Left it at the shop soaking the threads. Hopefully more luck getting it off tomorrow.
All of the belts look fine but I will be replacing them, except the timing.
Oh. The tensioner spring,I believe I know which way it goes but am not sure. Could someone post a picture?

You are aware that the fan is left hand thread. Just making sure.

MrHill · Post by **MrHill** » Feb 14, 2013 9:37 AM

Brad D. wrote:
MrHill wrote:
freetoride wrote:I couldn't tell exactly which oil light the OP was speaking of......... could it have been the oil level warning?
Yes the oil level warning. Up by the rear view.
Got the WP out. It was crap. Althought the damn fan was locked up on it. Left it at the shop soaking the threads. Hopefully more luck getting it off tomorrow.
All of the belts look fine but I will be replacing them, except the timing.
Oh. The tensioner spring,I believe I know which way it goes but am not sure. Could someone post a picture?
You are aware that the fan is left hand thread. Just making sure.

Yup

Post by **Brad D.** » Feb 14, 2013 9:44 AM

MrHill wrote:
Brad D. wrote:
MrHill wrote:
freetoride wrote:I couldn't tell exactly which oil light the OP was speaking of......... could it have been the oil level warning?
Yes the oil level warning. Up by the rear view.
Got the WP out. It was crap. Althought the damn fan was locked up on it. Left it at the shop soaking the threads. Hopefully more luck getting it off tomorrow.
All of the belts look fine but I will be replacing them, except the timing.
Oh. The tensioner spring,I believe I know which way it goes but am not sure. Could someone post a picture?
You are aware that the fan is left hand thread. Just making sure.
Yup

Cool. They can definitely be frozen on the pump pretty good, but it sure makes it hard to remove if you are tightening it. Shocking the wrench with a hammer helps break it loose.

MrHill · Post by **MrHill** » Feb 14, 2013 9:53 AM

Oh I whacked the shit out of it. Put it on a vice, and started whackin, tried tightening it also to try to get it to move. Didn't budge a bit

Post by **tsmall07** » Feb 14, 2013 11:17 AM

MrHill wrote:Oh I whacked the shit out of it. Put it on a vice, and started whackin, tried tightening it also to try to get it to move. Didn't budge a bit

Probably worth it just to get a new clutch for your new WP at that point. Never tighten the fan with a wrench. I just spin it on until it stops. Also, use anti-seize.

Post by **Brad D.** » Feb 14, 2013 11:35 AM

tsmall07 wrote:
MrHill wrote:Oh I whacked the shit out of it. Put it on a vice, and started whackin, tried tightening it also to try to get it to move. Didn't budge a bit
Probably worth it just to get a new clutch for your new WP at that point. Never tighten the fan with a wrench. I just spin it on until it stops. Also, use anti-seize.

This.

tn535i · Post by **tn535i** » Feb 14, 2013 1:55 PM

MrHill wrote: Yes the oil level warning.

Ahh your back. Funny or odd that light also came on during all of the rest of this adventure. I hope it is just the water pump that has gone bad and the additional driving didn't overheat anything. So maybe if the pump locked up the smoke was from belts not turning. If your oil looks good then maybe just a new pump and you'll be back on the road.

Have you removed the alternator/WP belt then started the motor briefly to see that the big crank hub/pulley is turning and turning the PS or AC. I really can't imagine any scenario where a key breaks and that thing comes loose.

pleasefixitup · Post by **pleasefixitup** » Feb 15, 2013 5:29 AM

Brad D. wrote:
MrHill wrote:
Brad D. wrote:
MrHill wrote:
freetoride wrote:I couldn't tell exactly which oil light the OP was speaking of......... could it have been the oil level warning?
Yes the oil level warning. Up by the rear view.
Got the WP out. It was crap. Althought the damn fan was locked up on it. Left it at the shop soaking the threads. Hopefully more luck getting it off tomorrow.
All of the belts look fine but I will be replacing them, except the timing.
Oh. The tensioner spring,I believe I know which way it goes but am not sure. Could someone post a picture?
You are aware that the fan is left hand thread. Just making sure.
Yup
Cool. They can definitely be frozen on the pump pretty good, but it sure makes it hard to remove if you are tightening it. Shocking the wrench with a hammer helps break it loose.

I can say--the hammer trick works... I think I tensioned the belt a little tighter and that helped too....Probably took 15 swings of the hammer or so, then it just went.

Post by **tsmall07** » Feb 15, 2013 10:48 AM

pleasefixitup wrote:
Brad D. wrote:
MrHill wrote:
Brad D. wrote:
MrHill wrote: Yes the oil level warning. Up by the rear view.
Got the WP out. It was crap. Althought the damn fan was locked up on it. Left it at the shop soaking the threads. Hopefully more luck getting it off tomorrow.
All of the belts look fine but I will be replacing them, except the timing.
Oh. The tensioner spring,I believe I know which way it goes but am not sure. Could someone post a picture?
You are aware that the fan is left hand thread. Just making sure.
Yup
Cool. They can definitely be frozen on the pump pretty good, but it sure makes it hard to remove if you are tightening it. Shocking the wrench with a hammer helps break it loose.
I can say--the hammer trick works... I think I tensioned the belt a little tighter and that helped too....Probably took 15 swings of the hammer or so, then it just went.

When installed with my method listed above, I've never had to use more force than a bump with my hand to get the fan off.

MrHill · Post by **MrHill** » Feb 20, 2013 9:33 PM

How the hell do I get this tensioner spring in!!! Ahh

demetk · Post by **demetk** » Feb 20, 2013 9:56 PM

MrHill wrote:How the hell do I get this tensioner spring in!!! Ahh

Pretty sure you get the spring on before the belt goes on. Put the spring on, then the tensioner. Push on the tensioner with a screwdriver to compress the spring and then tighten the tensioner top bolt. That will hold everything in place so you can put the belt on. Then loosen the tensioner top bolt and the belt will be properly tensioned. Yes?

MrHill · Post by **MrHill** » Feb 21, 2013 12:24 PM

demetk wrote:
MrHill wrote:How the hell do I get this tensioner spring in!!! Ahh
Pretty sure you get the spring on before the belt goes on. Put the spring on, then the tensioner. Push on the tensioner with a screwdriver to compress the spring and then tighten the tensioner top bolt. That will hold everything in place so you can put the belt on. Then loosen the tensioner top bolt and the belt will be properly tensioned. Yes?

I'm not replacing the timing belt
I have a new one but the old one is still in good condition and I don't wanna fuck my timing up

passwor3 · Post by **passwor3** » Feb 21, 2013 1:06 PM

$.02 - Don't be a bonehead. do the belt while u r in there. $25-30 dollars of insurance is cheap insurance.
You won't f-up the timing any more than you'll f-up the tensioning assembly. I have seen decent write-ups here or maybe at Rod Paine's site. You don't even need to buy a Bentley manual.

tn535i · Post by **tn535i** » Feb 21, 2013 2:07 PM

You can change the WP without messing with the timing whatsoever. But the spring falls out then you just put it back into the recess on the WP and align it with the tensioner as you place the WP. It's a bit more trouble fighting the spring but not so bad, I've done it before and would if the WP failed but I knew the t-belt was no where near due to be replaced.

MrHill · Post by **MrHill** » Feb 21, 2013 3:42 PM

I couldn't get it in. The tensioner wouldn't budge. Even loosened

Kyle in NO · Post by **Kyle in NO** » Feb 21, 2013 8:07 PM

Even more fail than before. Not changing the belt now is a great idea.

a · Post by a » Feb 21, 2013 9:10 PM

Kyle in NO wrote:Even more fail than before. Not changing the belt now is a great idea.

Some people just gotta learn by their own mistakes, Something tells me the OP is seniority challenged .

pleasefixitup · Post by **pleasefixitup** » Feb 21, 2013 10:45 PM

MrHill wrote:I couldn't get it in. The tensioner wouldn't budge. Even loosened

two bolts hold the tensioner in IIRC...and only one of those bolts deal with the adjustment--I think it's the outermost bolt?

Everything under the timing covers should be fairly clean and I'm confused as to why you're having such a hard time with it.

12valves · Post by **12valves** » Feb 21, 2013 11:07 PM

If you weren't planning to replace the timing belt you should not have messed with the tensioner at all.

The spring is only there for the initial tensioning of the belt during installation. After you get the belt on, turn the engine over twice and verify timing marks, the bolts for the tensioner pulley get tightened down and it doesn't move again.

Post by **Brad D.** » Feb 22, 2013 10:05 AM

This can't end well.

Mike W. · Post by **Mike W.** » Feb 22, 2013 10:18 AM

Brad D. wrote:This can't end well.

I was fearing that when I saw the original post.

MrHill wrote: About 15-20 miles into the drive home the coolant light came on. Which is weird because I filled it the other day. Kept driving. Then the battery light and abs light came on. Now I knew something was up. Next was the engine oil light, also weird as I did my oil change less than 2k miles ago. I finally got home and pulled into my dirt driveway to see what I hoped was dust.
It wasn't dust... Smoke from under the hood. I

shagrath · Post by **shagrath** » Feb 22, 2013 10:50 AM

My worked blocked the whole first page. Guess I miss out on the fun.

This thread is full of fail. Full of freakin' fail.

MrHill... put the tools down, walk away from the car slowly, and call a local mechanic.

Frybrid 524td · Post by **Frybrid 524td** » Feb 22, 2013 11:06 AM

You should really consider the timing belt to timing chain upgrade.

1st 5er · Post by **1st 5er** » Feb 22, 2013 11:45 AM

Frybrid 524td wrote:You should really consider the timing belt to timing chain upgrade.

...and use only the dual-row chain.

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