Could someone just directly link me to the best sus. parts?

[wkohler]

The stress you put the mount under is negligible compared to what it goes through while driving.

[garageboy]

Hi all. Sorry to get to this conversation late; I hope I didn't miss this in the discussion, but I was reading through this and didn't see it mentioned.

I don't know the age of the "strut bearings" but this could definitely contribute to the problem in a fairly large way, and worse, cause the problem to seemingly come back after doing all this work. The only way I know to verify the integrity of a strut bearing is when the entire strut assembly has come apart. I am happy to be corrected on that front.

I'm just saying - I'd hate to see you spend a bunch of $$ (how high are we up to so far?) and then have the issue remain, forcing you to disassemble a bunch of it all over again... all of this work is easy if you've done it before. The first time I did it was quite daunting. WEAR GOGGLES!!

Hope this helps,
.steve.

[HotWaterMusic]

I can guarantee the strut bearings are 25 years and have 110,000 miles on them. I'm guessing thosr should be replaced with everything else while I'm doing this?

[Jeremy]

I can guarantee the strut bearings are 25 years and have 110,000 miles on them. I'm guessing thosr should be replaced with everything else while I'm doing this?

Essentially, anything and everything on the car that's made out of rubber is suspect. Fuel lines, PS hoses, tires, bushings, brake lines, seals, air intake pieces, etc. Especially if the car sat for a large amount of time (>1 year), double especially if the car sat outside and/or in a hot environment, those things are ALL suspect.

Jeremy

[Mike W.]

I can guarantee the strut bearings are 25 years and have 110,000 miles on them. I'm guessing thosr should be replaced with everything else while I'm doing this?

I'd grease them, but with such low miles on them I wouldn't even think about replacing them without some strong evidence to suggest it.

[garageboy]

I can guarantee the strut bearings are 25 years and have 110,000 miles on them. I'm guessing thosr should be replaced with everything else while I'm doing this?

I'd grease them, but with such low miles on them I wouldn't even think about replacing them without some strong evidence to suggest it.

How on earth does one grease a sealed strut bearing? I'm missing something.

[ElGuappo]

They aren't sealed, you can clearly see the bearings thru the top with the washer removed.
Easy to grease them.

[Mike W.]

I'd grease them, but with such low miles on them I wouldn't even think about replacing them without some strong evidence to suggest it.

How on earth does one grease a sealed strut bearing? I'm missing something.

None of the ones I've seen have been sealed. They were creaking terribly on my E28 when I got it. Pulled the upper nut and washer, worked some grease in there and they quieted down in a few thousand miles. Stayed quiet for the next 150K too.

I've even thought about bending the tabs back and trying to replace the bearing itself, but grease has always worked before I got that far.

And I have pried the seal off and greased more than one sealed bearing too for that matter. Even reinstalled the seal.

[Jeremy]

And I have pried the seal off and greased more than one sealed bearing too for that matter. Even reinstalled the seal.

I've greased an e28's front wheel bearings, does that count?

The wheel bearing really is not that hard to get at, but very few people bother.

The strut bearing is easy. The bearings are staring you in the face when you look at it from the top uninstalled! I usually throw a small dab of bearing grease in there and work it around when I get new strut bearings. Maybe that's just me, but the bearings I got for the e36 seemed awfully dry.

[garageboy]

While it certainly cannot hurt to grease the strut bearing, my expectation is that if the part is already worn in OP's car, no amount of grease is going to help or prevent the need for replacement...

So is there any way to test or verify their ability to do their job without taking the strut assembly apart? When one compares the movement of a "new" one to an "old" one in one's hands, it's easy.

When one replaces struts, this is a great time to replace the strut bearing. But we're trying to help OP figure out how far to go without helping him spend a gazillion.

[Mike W.]

While it certainly cannot hurt to grease the strut bearing, my expectation is that if the part is already worn in OP's car, no amount of grease is going to help or prevent the need for replacement...

So is there any way to test or verify their ability to do their job without taking the strut assembly apart? When one compares the movement of a "new" one to an "old" one in one's hands, it's easy.

When one replaces struts, this is a great time to replace the strut bearing. But we're trying to help OP figure out how far to go without helping him spend a gazillion.

While I suppose they could rust away if they get dry, especially given your location, but I think that is the only thing you will see real wear from, it's a moving, but not even a fully rotating ball bearing, so it's not really wear prone.

[HotWaterMusic]

So I was able to remove everything as described in the thorough write-ups you guys put on here...except for one thing: the joint on the steering center link to pitman arm at the steering box. It will not separate. I have it unbolted, and the entire suspension assembly is off, but it's still being held to the car by that single joint. I tried a pickle fork on it but the angle is tough and I don't want to damage anything. I was hoping to do all removal tonight and replacement tomorrow. Any thoughts on how to get that single joint separated? Thanks![/img]

[garageboy]

I have found judicious, directed heat to work well. A propane torch might not be enough; a mapp gas torch (hotter) should do the trick. Obviously wrap/cover any rubber boots or any other components nearby that you want to keep with wet rags so that you don't melt something you didn't intend to destroy.

I suspect others might recommend a BFH, but unless you're on four very sturdy jack stands or something similar, I would not go that route unless the car was on a proper lift. (bfh = big fucking hammer).

And I have seen strut bearings fail and become loose. It affects everything in the suspension. Of course, I live in the pothole capitol of the world and have always beaten the crap out of all my cars...

[Jeremy]

A real ball joint separator and a whack to the side of the joint with the nose of a ball-peen hammer seems to be the hot ticket from what I've heard. Those joints get stuck together but good sometimes.

[ElGuappo]

You really need a ball joint separator to get that apart.
As I said above, the $20 unit from Harbor Freight works just fine for steering parts.

[HotWaterMusic]

Alright so I popped the center link/steering knuckle joint and have the entire suspension off the car now. I'm putting the new arms, and have come to the point where I'm a little confused...regarding "preloading". I know I'm not torquing anything until it's on the car, but what exactly is the preloading process for control arms and what's the easiest way to do it?

[John in VA]

...but what exactly is the preloading process for control arms and what's the easiest way to do it?

Easiest way would be to drive the car onto an alignment rack so you could crawl under and tighten things up.
You could also do this with the front tires on ramps.

[HotWaterMusic]

...but what exactly is the preloading process for control arms and what's the easiest way to do it?

Easiest way would be to drive the car onto an alignment rack so you could crawl under and tighten things up.
You could also do this with the front tires on ramps.

That's all there is to it? I'm basically torquing to spec while the car is under full weigh load? Nothing beyond that?

[Jeremy]

That's all there is to it? I'm basically torquing to spec while the car is under full weigh load? Nothing beyond that?

Yup, the important part is to NOT do it while the suspension is hanging with no weight on it. The suspension must be loaded when torquing those parts or the bushings will fail with the quickness.

How did you wind up getting the joints separated?

Jeremy

[tsmall07]

If you get Moosehead Engineering spherical UCABs, no need to preload. I hear the LCABs will be ready soon, too.

[mooseheadm5]

I hear the LCABs will be ready soon, too.

Not sphericals.

[HotWaterMusic]

That's all there is to it? I'm basically torquing to spec while the car is under full weigh load? Nothing beyond that?

Yup, the important part is to NOT do it while the suspension is hanging with no weight on it. The suspension must be loaded when torquing those parts or the bushings will fail with the quickness.

How did you wind up getting the joints separated?

Jeremy

Understood.
I used the Harbor Freight ball joint separator, worked it up in there at the centerlink/steering knuckle and cranked it until I thought something was going to explode.
And it did...I heard a gunshot, felt the crosslink's weight in the hand protecting my face, and saw the joint had finally separated. When removing the control arms with the same tool, they both shot 10ft across my back porch when they finally popped!

[ElGuappo]

There is an element of sudden violence when using a ball joint separator.
But it puts the force exactly where it needs to be.

[HotWaterMusic]

Regarding preloading the suspension, does that apply only to the bolts at the chassis for the UCAs and LCAs? Can I torque the nuts that attach both the arms and tie rods to the strut plate here on my bench, without the weight of the car on them?

Nvrmnd, I think I answered my own question, as not a single one of these CA/TR nuts on the strut plates will turn without turning the bolt with it. So I'm guessing it's the weight of the car that stops the bolt from turning while I tighten the nuts up? Please me correct if I'm wrong...

[mooseheadm5]

Regarding preloading the suspension, does that apply only to the bolts at the chassis for the UCAs and LCAs? Can I torque the nuts that attach both the arms and tie rods to the strut plate here on my bench, without the weight of the car on them?

You need to bolt the bushing end of the UCA and LCA withthe car at ride height. The ball joint end can be bolted up on the bench. If you are having an issue with the ball stud turning when trying to tighten the nut, you can use a clamp or large channel locks to squeeze the joint together. The stud is tapered so this will put some friction to bear to keep it from turning.

[HotWaterMusic]

So I installed everything, put the car on ramps, had my girlfriend and brother sitting in the pass/driver seats, and torqued the UCAs and LCAs. One bolt that is giving me problems though the nut on top of the centerlink that attaches to the steering box. It's very very difficult to get a wrench on, and forget getting a torque wrench on there. So how tight am I suppose to get this thing? I drove the car and it seems the steering wheel shudder and vibration are gone, but there's a lot of slop in the steering. Even more than there was before I think. Could this be because I don't have the centerlink/steering box nut tight enough? I have it cranked on there, but there's no way to torque it. Any thoughts?

[mooseheadm5]

Make it tight. The stud on that is tapered, too, and it is a lock nut, so if it is reasonably tight, you will have no issues.

[HotWaterMusic]

So assuming all control arms are new, tie rods are new, center link is new and all nuts and bolts are torqued to spec, why would I still have about 2 inches of free play in my steering wheel? That's what I am dealing with right now. Replacing everything did get rid of the vibration in the steering wheel under braking, but the slop in the steering wheel now is as bad or worse than before. What's left to change to fix this?

[ahab]

Have you had the car aligned since you changed all the parts? Also, if your steering box is worn you'll have excessive play. There is a bit of a black art discussed here about tightening it.

[Jeremy]

There's also the u-joint in the steering column which can develop some looseness over the course of time.