1987 528e DD, my first BMW! [IMG heavy]
Julianne: I would say that if you do any modifications or upgrades to your car, at the very least you should do the list below. These are primarily focused on safety and, in my opinion, should be done by everyone owning and daily driving an E28. While the E28 is a marvel and testament to Teutonic engineering, there is room for improvement in several key systems.
1. Brake & Tail Light Upgrade:
I consider this probably the most important and simplest improvement you can make to your car. The E28 suffers from a deficiency of rear light power; both in night running lights and especially in rear brakes. While your '87 carries the high center brake light ("Cyclops" lamp), the lower tail lights need help. All E28's are designed with a bulb slot for the Euro Rear Fog lamps; BMW blanked out this slot on all US models. This upgrade utilizes this slot for an additional brake light each side and changes the types of bulbs (brighter) in the entire assembly. This vastly improves your odds of being seen from the folks behind you. Your car should look like this when you hit the brakes:
Search for MisterFixit's thread on his upgrade package; worth every penny and insanely easy to execute.(http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=109181).
Please don't consider smoked tail light lenses unless you're begging to be rear-ended and want your car totaled.
2. Headlight Upgrade:
In keeping with #1 above, another weak spot on the E28 are the front headlights. You can improve them however; review Daniel Stern's incredibly informative website on all things lighting related. Also, Rod Paine's site is equally informative. There are several options to accomplish better and more light output from the front:
A. 5.25" H4 Low Beams: Let's face it, US sealed beams suck. Hella makes an excellent 5.25" H4 drop-in unit for the US headlight buckets. Daniel Stern would argue that the Cibie unit is far superior and he may be right. Drop in 100/90 watt bulbs and you make a great upgrade better (note: do not attempt these higher bulbs until you upgrade the wiring).
B. 7" H4 Lows & 5.25" H1 Highs: This is known as the Euro Headlight system. Standard on all Euro versions, far better than even option A above. Do this along with some 100 watt H3 driving lights and you're all set for those Morris County backroads at night. Yours could like this (well, maybe not quite):
C. Wiring Upgrade: Daniel Stern and Rod do extensive write-ups on this upgrade. Consists of installing relays in between the fuse box and headlights then running 12ga. wire from the relays up to the headlights. I did this to my M535 and it made a considerable difference in the light output. Relatively simple to do and Stern's kit is pretty complete.
3. Big Brake Upgrade:
Although you may be driving and eta and you won't (or cannot) be driving very fast (
), wouldn't it be better if you could stop on a dime? Fortunately, there is an easy solution to this: install the braking system from an E32. A more involved upgrade for sure, but well worth the money and time and can be done in a day. Look at this thread for all the options:http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=43 ... rake+lines
I think the Stage V is one of the better systems. There are some items to point out:
A. You will need at least 15" wheels to do any kind of substantial upgrade.
B. You do not need the replace your Master Cylinder with that from an E32. It's optional. It will likely cause you to lose any kind of pedal travel if you do.
C. You should replace your brake lines when you do this. You do not need to use stainless steel lines, new rubber lines are plenty sufficient (especially since you're in an eta).
D. When buying used calipers, you should probably rebuild the pistons. This is a bit more involved and should be done with an air compressor handy.
4. Front Turn Signal Upgrade:
Okay, so this is kind of minor and admittedly I have yet to do this to my '88 535, but it is on the list. One of the minor annoyances of the US E28 is that the front turn signals only point forward and anyone facing your car from the side cannot see if you're turning or going forward. There is an easy solution to this: activate the front bumper side Marker Light as a side turn signal repeater. It's an easy upgrade to do; described here: http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e28/electr ... ators.html
5. Fuel System Overhaul:
This is really a baseline item, but pretty critical for an old car. The Fuel System is in two parts:
A. Supply (Rear): Change out all the rubber fuel hoses and clamps and replace both pumps. If you're really into it, drop the fuel tank and make any all rust repairs you'll find (not to mention you'll have the chance to clean out all the dirt and dead animals you're bound to find up there). Eastwood's Rust encapsulator will be your friend.
B. Injection (Front): Change out all the rubber fuel hoses and clamps, new FPR, and either new O-rings for the injectors or replace them with Bosch Type III reman'd units (better option). More here: http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=29 ... eplacement and here:http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=71983
6. Fuse Box Overhaul:
Another baseline item, but oh so crucial. Chances are pretty good that your fuse box has seen better days (weak terminals that don't hold fuses well, melted spots, etc.). Short of replacing the entire box altogether, here are some basic things that can be done:
A. Replace all the fuses with new, ceramic with brass & copper elements. Forget the cheap ones you find at the corner auto parts store; AutohausAZ or Pelican are great sources for these.
B. Carefully re-bend the fuse holders if misshapen. Clean off the holders with a brass brush (Dremel works the best). Be sure to disconnect the battery prior to doing this.
C. Install the new fuses with some sort of retaining device; rubber O-rings are the best (see thread below).
D. Replace all the relays; reinstall with a dab of dielectric grease.
E. Accessory Fuse Box: I'm not sure your '87 eta has one, but if so, use this for any future audio system upgrades (that's a whole other discussion). The goal is to alleviate the overloaded fuse #5 which should be one of the worst looking fuse locations in the box.
F. To help the save your fuse box, you should replace the auxiliary fan relay on the fan itself. As these age, the resistance on them increases to point of causing problems at the fuse. This fuse location will look equally as bad as #5.
G. Related, but kind of separate is to go through all the ground points in the car with a wire brush and Deoxit cleaner and protector. Replace the engine ground straps while you're at it.
Several of these items are listed here:http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=73097
7. Suspension System Overhaul/Upgrade:
I've saved the best (and most controversial) for last. Without going into all the myriads of potential upgrades, I will say that once you experience an E28 with a new stock suspension, you'll begin to understand one of the many appeals of the model. BMW did a pretty good job engineering this car, but again, there is some room for improvements. However, you only have an eta, so I'll focus on the items that make this car a better street driver:
A. Replace both upper and lower control arms. Upper should be the HD variety (Meyle). These will last a lot longer than the stock ones. You have an option with the lowers: stock, aluminum E28/E32, or if you're serious: aluminum E31 (8 Series). Frankly though, the aluminums don't save that much weight and aren't really worth the upcharge.
B. Replace the tie rods, center steering link, steering pitman arm. Only buy quality Lemforder or Meyle; DON'T BUY FCP of EBAY!
C. Replace sway bar links and sway bar bushings. No need to go urethane for the bushings; new rubber will feel plenty substantial.
D. You can consider upgrading the sway bars to those of either the 535is or even the M5. For the eta though, I would only go with the 535is version (IIRC 22mm/16mm, front & back). These don't put much strain on the mounts unlike the M5 bars. I'd only do those if you re-weld the mounts to the frame.
E. Struts & Shocks: Okay, so again, stock heights only. If you're goal is to end up with 16" wheels, then you really need to upgrade the struts and shocks. Bilstein HD's are great for this need, but be prepared for a slightly stiffer ride. If you want to lower the car more than that, there are many numerous discussions out there on that subject.
F. Replace the rear pitmans (dog bones), rear sway bar bushings, and rear sway bar links.
Well, that's about it for the safety and driving upgrades; at least the ones I think are important. Everything else is mostly cosmetic and/or won't apply to an eta. I could have gone into a rear differential upgrade, but that's not really a safety thing; more of a fun thing.
I almost forgot one of the most important safety upgrades there is: you. Seriously consider getting yourself to a Car Control Clinic or BMW's Street Survival course. Learning how to drive this car safely in panic situations will far outweigh whatever other improvement you make to the car itself.
Most of all: have fun with it. Good luck.
1. Brake & Tail Light Upgrade:
I consider this probably the most important and simplest improvement you can make to your car. The E28 suffers from a deficiency of rear light power; both in night running lights and especially in rear brakes. While your '87 carries the high center brake light ("Cyclops" lamp), the lower tail lights need help. All E28's are designed with a bulb slot for the Euro Rear Fog lamps; BMW blanked out this slot on all US models. This upgrade utilizes this slot for an additional brake light each side and changes the types of bulbs (brighter) in the entire assembly. This vastly improves your odds of being seen from the folks behind you. Your car should look like this when you hit the brakes:
Search for MisterFixit's thread on his upgrade package; worth every penny and insanely easy to execute.(http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=109181).
Please don't consider smoked tail light lenses unless you're begging to be rear-ended and want your car totaled.
2. Headlight Upgrade:
In keeping with #1 above, another weak spot on the E28 are the front headlights. You can improve them however; review Daniel Stern's incredibly informative website on all things lighting related. Also, Rod Paine's site is equally informative. There are several options to accomplish better and more light output from the front:
A. 5.25" H4 Low Beams: Let's face it, US sealed beams suck. Hella makes an excellent 5.25" H4 drop-in unit for the US headlight buckets. Daniel Stern would argue that the Cibie unit is far superior and he may be right. Drop in 100/90 watt bulbs and you make a great upgrade better (note: do not attempt these higher bulbs until you upgrade the wiring).
B. 7" H4 Lows & 5.25" H1 Highs: This is known as the Euro Headlight system. Standard on all Euro versions, far better than even option A above. Do this along with some 100 watt H3 driving lights and you're all set for those Morris County backroads at night. Yours could like this (well, maybe not quite):
C. Wiring Upgrade: Daniel Stern and Rod do extensive write-ups on this upgrade. Consists of installing relays in between the fuse box and headlights then running 12ga. wire from the relays up to the headlights. I did this to my M535 and it made a considerable difference in the light output. Relatively simple to do and Stern's kit is pretty complete.
3. Big Brake Upgrade:
Although you may be driving and eta and you won't (or cannot) be driving very fast (
), wouldn't it be better if you could stop on a dime? Fortunately, there is an easy solution to this: install the braking system from an E32. A more involved upgrade for sure, but well worth the money and time and can be done in a day. Look at this thread for all the options:http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=43 ... rake+linesI think the Stage V is one of the better systems. There are some items to point out:
A. You will need at least 15" wheels to do any kind of substantial upgrade.
B. You do not need the replace your Master Cylinder with that from an E32. It's optional. It will likely cause you to lose any kind of pedal travel if you do.
C. You should replace your brake lines when you do this. You do not need to use stainless steel lines, new rubber lines are plenty sufficient (especially since you're in an eta).
D. When buying used calipers, you should probably rebuild the pistons. This is a bit more involved and should be done with an air compressor handy.
4. Front Turn Signal Upgrade:
Okay, so this is kind of minor and admittedly I have yet to do this to my '88 535, but it is on the list. One of the minor annoyances of the US E28 is that the front turn signals only point forward and anyone facing your car from the side cannot see if you're turning or going forward. There is an easy solution to this: activate the front bumper side Marker Light as a side turn signal repeater. It's an easy upgrade to do; described here: http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e28/electr ... ators.html
5. Fuel System Overhaul:
This is really a baseline item, but pretty critical for an old car. The Fuel System is in two parts:
A. Supply (Rear): Change out all the rubber fuel hoses and clamps and replace both pumps. If you're really into it, drop the fuel tank and make any all rust repairs you'll find (not to mention you'll have the chance to clean out all the dirt and dead animals you're bound to find up there). Eastwood's Rust encapsulator will be your friend.
B. Injection (Front): Change out all the rubber fuel hoses and clamps, new FPR, and either new O-rings for the injectors or replace them with Bosch Type III reman'd units (better option). More here: http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=29 ... eplacement and here:http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=71983
6. Fuse Box Overhaul:
Another baseline item, but oh so crucial. Chances are pretty good that your fuse box has seen better days (weak terminals that don't hold fuses well, melted spots, etc.). Short of replacing the entire box altogether, here are some basic things that can be done:
A. Replace all the fuses with new, ceramic with brass & copper elements. Forget the cheap ones you find at the corner auto parts store; AutohausAZ or Pelican are great sources for these.
B. Carefully re-bend the fuse holders if misshapen. Clean off the holders with a brass brush (Dremel works the best). Be sure to disconnect the battery prior to doing this.
C. Install the new fuses with some sort of retaining device; rubber O-rings are the best (see thread below).
D. Replace all the relays; reinstall with a dab of dielectric grease.
E. Accessory Fuse Box: I'm not sure your '87 eta has one, but if so, use this for any future audio system upgrades (that's a whole other discussion). The goal is to alleviate the overloaded fuse #5 which should be one of the worst looking fuse locations in the box.
F. To help the save your fuse box, you should replace the auxiliary fan relay on the fan itself. As these age, the resistance on them increases to point of causing problems at the fuse. This fuse location will look equally as bad as #5.
G. Related, but kind of separate is to go through all the ground points in the car with a wire brush and Deoxit cleaner and protector. Replace the engine ground straps while you're at it.
Several of these items are listed here:http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=73097
7. Suspension System Overhaul/Upgrade:
I've saved the best (and most controversial) for last. Without going into all the myriads of potential upgrades, I will say that once you experience an E28 with a new stock suspension, you'll begin to understand one of the many appeals of the model. BMW did a pretty good job engineering this car, but again, there is some room for improvements. However, you only have an eta, so I'll focus on the items that make this car a better street driver:
A. Replace both upper and lower control arms. Upper should be the HD variety (Meyle). These will last a lot longer than the stock ones. You have an option with the lowers: stock, aluminum E28/E32, or if you're serious: aluminum E31 (8 Series). Frankly though, the aluminums don't save that much weight and aren't really worth the upcharge.
B. Replace the tie rods, center steering link, steering pitman arm. Only buy quality Lemforder or Meyle; DON'T BUY FCP of EBAY!
C. Replace sway bar links and sway bar bushings. No need to go urethane for the bushings; new rubber will feel plenty substantial.
D. You can consider upgrading the sway bars to those of either the 535is or even the M5. For the eta though, I would only go with the 535is version (IIRC 22mm/16mm, front & back). These don't put much strain on the mounts unlike the M5 bars. I'd only do those if you re-weld the mounts to the frame.
E. Struts & Shocks: Okay, so again, stock heights only. If you're goal is to end up with 16" wheels, then you really need to upgrade the struts and shocks. Bilstein HD's are great for this need, but be prepared for a slightly stiffer ride. If you want to lower the car more than that, there are many numerous discussions out there on that subject.
F. Replace the rear pitmans (dog bones), rear sway bar bushings, and rear sway bar links.
Well, that's about it for the safety and driving upgrades; at least the ones I think are important. Everything else is mostly cosmetic and/or won't apply to an eta. I could have gone into a rear differential upgrade, but that's not really a safety thing; more of a fun thing.
I almost forgot one of the most important safety upgrades there is: you. Seriously consider getting yourself to a Car Control Clinic or BMW's Street Survival course. Learning how to drive this car safely in panic situations will far outweigh whatever other improvement you make to the car itself.
Most of all: have fun with it. Good luck.
Last edited by vinceg101 on Jan 07, 2013 2:17 AM, edited 2 times in total.
^ I think I have a standing offer on the bracket, but I'll keep you in mind!
Great list up there. I live in New Jersey, it's crowded, and anything I can do to prevent getting hit is something I will put on my to-do list. The headlight thing is relevant because right now I'm basically rocking one headlight and one fog without a lens ):
So, if I were to get those Hella H4's, that is just a drop in replacement for the current lights I have? Are they just like mine (with the high beams included) or do I have to do something special?
Great list up there. I live in New Jersey, it's crowded, and anything I can do to prevent getting hit is something I will put on my to-do list. The headlight thing is relevant because right now I'm basically rocking one headlight and one fog without a lens ):
So, if I were to get those Hella H4's, that is just a drop in replacement for the current lights I have? Are they just like mine (with the high beams included) or do I have to do something special?
Correct, they work in conjunction with the US headlight rings and buckets. You can either just keep the sealed beam highs or go with the same Hella 5.25" lamps with H1 bulbs. Classic Garage sells the set here: http://classicgarage.com/002850871.html.jkarr wrote:^ I think I have a standing offer on the bracket, but I'll keep you in mind!
Great list up there. I live in New Jersey, it's crowded, and anything I can do to prevent getting hit is something I will put on my to-do list. The headlight thing is relevant because right now I'm basically rocking one headlight and one fog without a lens ):
So, if I were to get those Hella H4's, that is just a drop in replacement for the current lights I have? Are they just like mine (with the high beams included) or do I have to do something special?
Note anyone selling these H4 lamps has the disclaimer that these are not for official road use. I'm not sure NJ still goes through that insane car inspection every other year, but if they do, it might be best to keep a spare set of sealed beams for the inspection.
Thank god for small miracles; I can't tell you how many times my first car, '72 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, failed the brake test. I don't need to tell you how sketchy 4 wheel drum brakes are; especially old ones.jkarr wrote:Actually, NJ only does emissions now, so I can really do whatever I like with the lights so long as they don't get me pulled over! Thanks for the link, I was looking for a place with them that had 'em at a fair price.
I owned a '66 Toronado. You need to tell me nothing about four wheel drums. Holy brake fade batman.vinceg101 wrote:Thank god for small miracles; I can't tell you how many times my first car, '72 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, failed the brake test. I don't need to tell you how sketchy 4 wheel drum brakes are; especially old ones.jkarr wrote:Actually, NJ only does emissions now, so I can really do whatever I like with the lights so long as they don't get me pulled over! Thanks for the link, I was looking for a place with them that had 'em at a fair price.
Just a little update... Been a while!
Here's how she looks as of yesterday:
She's got new shoes and a new MTech1 wheel (courtesy of ahab!) most recently. I also picked up an IS lip from brocamdan28, the IS fogs from 87royale, Gooch saved me a couple hundred miles on the road by bringing a fender back to NJ from PA... You all have been helping me so much to get this car to where it is and I'm super thankful! Shoutout to everyone here who has ever messaged me advice, you have all been just awesome and I'm so glad to be here.
Also, my E28 shares my driveway with this big girl now instead, which I drove home from Wyoming to New Jersey:
I guess times are a changin! Just wanted to share with everyone.
Here's how she looks as of yesterday:
She's got new shoes and a new MTech1 wheel (courtesy of ahab!) most recently. I also picked up an IS lip from brocamdan28, the IS fogs from 87royale, Gooch saved me a couple hundred miles on the road by bringing a fender back to NJ from PA... You all have been helping me so much to get this car to where it is and I'm super thankful! Shoutout to everyone here who has ever messaged me advice, you have all been just awesome and I'm so glad to be here.
Also, my E28 shares my driveway with this big girl now instead, which I drove home from Wyoming to New Jersey:
I guess times are a changin! Just wanted to share with everyone.
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Drew in NYC
- Posts: 1625
- Joined: Mar 03, 2011
- Location: New York
The only trick to installing new headlights is that the plastic screws that hold the grilles on strip out about as easily as if they were made of playdoh. I've never gotten the grilles off without drilling at least one screw a side. Luckily they're cheap from a dealer or your choice of oe parts supplier. I like Blunttech.vinceg101 wrote:Correct, they work in conjunction with the US headlight rings and buckets. You can either just keep the sealed beam highs or go with the same Hella 5.25" lamps with H1 bulbs. Classic Garage sells the set here: http://classicgarage.com/002850871.html.jkarr wrote:^ I think I have a standing offer on the bracket, but I'll keep you in mind!
Great list up there. I live in New Jersey, it's crowded, and anything I can do to prevent getting hit is something I will put on my to-do list. The headlight thing is relevant because right now I'm basically rocking one headlight and one fog without a lens ):
So, if I were to get those Hella H4's, that is just a drop in replacement for the current lights I have? Are they just like mine (with the high beams included) or do I have to do something special?
Note anyone selling these H4 lamps has the disclaimer that these are not for official road use. I'm not sure NJ still goes through that insane car inspection every other year, but if they do, it might be best to keep a spare set of sealed beams for the inspection.
I've got H1's and H4's on my 528e, and they make a WORLD of difference.
I like your pictures, you're good at that.
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Chimi-Changa
- Posts: 1777
- Joined: Nov 08, 2011
- Location: Westborough, MA
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Chimi-Changa
- Posts: 1777
- Joined: Nov 08, 2011
- Location: Westborough, MA
Drew... hell yeah. The steering feels so different now. Part of that may be that I had pretty much the entire front suspension redone, but the wheel helps...
Jamie, I was thinking of getting black with red dots or black with blue dots... Red for the dash lights and blue for the BMW emblem... decisions...
Jamie, I was thinking of getting black with red dots or black with blue dots... Red for the dash lights and blue for the BMW emblem... decisions...