Coming in....advise on potential set-up? (newer dyno #s!)
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cvillebimmer
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e30-m30_kid89
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Word.Scottinva wrote:Yay for progress!
Good news, the machine shop finally called and let me know after inspection he recommends putting new new guides/seals but kept telling me they checked out the cam,rocker arms/shafts and said they were in excellent condition with virtually no wear
Should be getting it later this week, gonna tq it down then motor goes into the car
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e30-m30_kid89
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Hmmmm...I guess they're using extra precaution since i told them the motor is going to be boosted..they said they vaccum tested all the ports for leakage and that what is needed.bornagain wrote:i wonder what specs he used for the guides... m30 motors typically have alot of allowable play in the guides. something like .006 i think. They usually dont need to be replaced for long period of time.
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e30-m30_kid89
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Ok another quick question, I've already asked a few people but I want to hear what you guys think.
I want to clean/"prep" my block surface in anticipation of receiving the head later this week. some people have told me to use 3M abrasive polishing pads, others have told me wd40+fine sanding block and the internets has tons of other techniques...but since most of you have the same motor as me i figured id ask you what you did...Im always open to suggestions to get this sucker sealed up nicely to go boosting away with no problems.
So please share!!
I want to clean/"prep" my block surface in anticipation of receiving the head later this week. some people have told me to use 3M abrasive polishing pads, others have told me wd40+fine sanding block and the internets has tons of other techniques...but since most of you have the same motor as me i figured id ask you what you did...Im always open to suggestions to get this sucker sealed up nicely to go boosting away with no problems.
So please share!!
im trying to remember, originally i believe i used a light oil/wd40 and sanding block after buffing the block to remove gasket residue. The second time around i simply wiped it down and removed any oil and residue as the surface is usually pretty good on the block already. I find (this is IMO) that the head is what needs the most prep. I wet sanded the surface of my head for about an hour to remove scratches. anything my nail would get caught on needed to go. same principal applied to the block, if my nail could get caught on it then it was smoothed. I was pretty diligent the first time around on the block so when it came apart for the new head it was smooth and flat and the gasket hadnt stuck at all.
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e30-m30_kid89
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I ended up using a fine sanding block+wd40...came out smooth!
Heres where I'm at now:

Still gotta run the car and finish torqueing down the head. Plus there's so much small crap that has to be done...ugh! im getting there however, I want to fire up the motor tommrow and maybe start bolting up the transmission afterwards..
Getting there...
Heres where I'm at now:

Still gotta run the car and finish torqueing down the head. Plus there's so much small crap that has to be done...ugh! im getting there however, I want to fire up the motor tommrow and maybe start bolting up the transmission afterwards..
Getting there...
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cvillebimmer
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itsbrokeagain
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I like the way this is coming along!
I can't wait to start my own B35 swap. Kinda hard to start your own project when other people are paying you to fix their BMWs you know?
I have 2 big jobs left to do before I can get cracking on mine ( E30 M3 euro gearbox swap, and differential, and a new 335 doing upgraded turbos
). I have been all over the miller site and contacted Paul a while ago about building a boosted B35.
Thank god 666Fabrication manifolds came way down in price. At $1200, I can actually afford it!
I need to do air to water intercooling though, want to keep the AC and not cut apart the BBS valance I have to do an intercooler.
I can't wait to start my own B35 swap. Kinda hard to start your own project when other people are paying you to fix their BMWs you know?
I have 2 big jobs left to do before I can get cracking on mine ( E30 M3 euro gearbox swap, and differential, and a new 335 doing upgraded turbos
Thank god 666Fabrication manifolds came way down in price. At $1200, I can actually afford it!
I need to do air to water intercooling though, want to keep the AC and not cut apart the BBS valance I have to do an intercooler.
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e30-m30_kid89
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Ugh...wish i had some good news, I do but its overshadowed by the bad.
I spent all of today doing some harness rewiring etc getting the motor ready for a test fire. I last adjusted the valves then went to get some oil at the store...filled it up, hooked up the battery and checked with TS if everything was good to go, looked good so i tried cranking it and it easily fired up! then it died. followed by a small faint "tick" at the end. I thought the battery was dead so i charged it up but the starter sounded like it was stuck.
So i went to go turn the motor over by hand, won't move
if i try the opposite way it moves a bit then stops with a ticking noise
I CHECKED,CHECKED AND CHECKED AGAIN the timing before I put the motor in, and it was dead on, the marks lined up 100%, I made sure of it repeatedly. The motor spun freely by hand easily with no problems when i installed the head yesterday all the way to tonight when i was turning the motor over to do the valve adjustment, so i hope its nothing in there that serious
the only thing I did not try/test prior to installing the motor is the starter and i only put in one of the bolts since the other inner one would be hard to get to since i'm using the fat b34 starter...
Tommrow im going to try removing it and see if it frees things up, i really hope it does
I spent all of today doing some harness rewiring etc getting the motor ready for a test fire. I last adjusted the valves then went to get some oil at the store...filled it up, hooked up the battery and checked with TS if everything was good to go, looked good so i tried cranking it and it easily fired up! then it died. followed by a small faint "tick" at the end. I thought the battery was dead so i charged it up but the starter sounded like it was stuck.
So i went to go turn the motor over by hand, won't move
I CHECKED,CHECKED AND CHECKED AGAIN the timing before I put the motor in, and it was dead on, the marks lined up 100%, I made sure of it repeatedly. The motor spun freely by hand easily with no problems when i installed the head yesterday all the way to tonight when i was turning the motor over to do the valve adjustment, so i hope its nothing in there that serious
the only thing I did not try/test prior to installing the motor is the starter and i only put in one of the bolts since the other inner one would be hard to get to since i'm using the fat b34 starter...
Tommrow im going to try removing it and see if it frees things up, i really hope it does
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e30-m30_kid89
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Early post, hard to sleep with the problem still at bay...i headed out the the garage early to see/check around since it was night when i quickly went over to find the problem....I noticed the timing chain guide rail was moving a lot making the ticking noise by, a quick search on the forums and i seen i have to pour some oil & hand prime the tensioner(never did that on my b34)..done and done! lots of resistace now and no ticking sounds, but the motor still wont turn freely. only thing now is the starter.
would starting the motor without priming the tensioner throw off the timing? Im just hoping there is no funny business going on inside..
would starting the motor without priming the tensioner throw off the timing? Im just hoping there is no funny business going on inside..
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cvillebimmer
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e30-m30_kid89
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If i had only read that...^^^^cvillebimmer wrote:You could have jumped a couple teeth if you chain was really loose. Check for TDC again. My fingers are crossed for you that it's an easy fix.
Got the motor free, tried starting, it started for maybe 5 seconds then i heard the most biggest heart wrenching clank noise and that was it.
Looks like the chain did skip, broke and took a rocker with it..my new head is most likely toast and the guide rails are broken too. im speechless.
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SilverBullet
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Ouch! Not a good noise at all to here.
Chin up dude, whip the head back off, check the pistons, replace the bent/broken valves and rockers and get that thing running.
I have no idea of what these things usually brake when the timing is out so you may have gotten luck (well as lucky as one can be after having skipped a couple of teeth) and there may not be that much damage.
Chin up dude, whip the head back off, check the pistons, replace the bent/broken valves and rockers and get that thing running.
I have no idea of what these things usually brake when the timing is out so you may have gotten luck (well as lucky as one can be after having skipped a couple of teeth) and there may not be that much damage.
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cvillebimmer
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e30-m30_kid89
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Long story short, i hastily ripped out the motor, pulled the head to see whats up. Theres a small sign of contact on #1 piston on the exhaust side which backs up the #1 rocker breaking(the rocker broke after car died and i tried turing it by hand. Visually the valves look ok, I did 2 tests one with gasoilne and another with water and no leaking in the 15mins stated in the bentley, I managed to get the front cover off and removed the broken guide rail. I changed the ones on my b34 with new ones so i swapped them over. I'm gonna take a "risk" and re use the head and just order a new timing chain, front main seal and headgasket.
We'll see what happens..
We'll see what happens..
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cvillebimmer
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e30-m30_kid89
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I yanked it in an hr or so, but there was no coolant filled up yet.cvillebimmer wrote:Under 2 hours?e30-m30_kid89 wrote:Long story short, i hastily ripped out the motor, pulled the head to see whats up.
I hope that you get lucky. When I primed my tentioner, it took more pumping that I expected but it eventually got rock hard.
I had a last min change of heart and took it to a machine shop that i used to go to that is quick and does great work..they tested and said all 6 exhaust valves were bent
Ordered another HG, front main seal, timing cover gaskets and chain...I get everything incl the head tommrow so we'll see how it goes..
and i'll quadruple check that the tensioner is primed!
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M. Holtmeier
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FirstFives Dictator
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e30-m30_kid89
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Im dead tired..long day.but I got the motor back together again valve cover to oil pan ready to go! I put the transmission on as well so i save time getting everything setup. AND YES I PRIMED THAT TENSIONER!!! lol
Carnage pic:

Edit: forgot to mention once they checked out the head only one intake valve was bent and the cam kinda got slighty seized in the head but they polished all the surfaces so its good to go again.
The guy thought i was somebody else...lol hence why he told me the 6 exh valves were bent.
Carnage pic:

Edit: forgot to mention once they checked out the head only one intake valve was bent and the cam kinda got slighty seized in the head but they polished all the surfaces so its good to go again.
The guy thought i was somebody else...lol hence why he told me the 6 exh valves were bent.
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e30-m30_kid89
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Me too!T_C_D wrote:Damn Devon that sucked! Hope it all goes right for you this time!
Motor/trans is now back in the car. I installed as much of the wiring harness on the motor before putting it in so i just got to hook up a few power wires and grounds then we can test again..I need to use the car later this evening, lol
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e30-m30_kid89
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FirstFives Dictator
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