Chris,
It sounds like you're having them do more than just the seats. I think I was one of the first to get more than just seats done (in an E28). They can definitely do the seats in two days but the rest of the pieces will take longer. Expect the cost of the doors, and console pieces to be more than the seats. They take more hides than the seats. Rear headrests can also add to the quote. BMW leather costs about 20% more -- I think this has to do with grain and color but I'm not sure because I chose a non-stock color anyway.
I'm happy with their work and I would definitely use them again, but I can offer advice that may help with some of the details.
Be careful with the ebrake handle. They don't do the thin stretched leather on the shifter, steering wheel and ebrake. At least that's what they told me. They will do the ebrake boot though.
There is a similar issue with the door panels and console pieces. I think the leather used by BMW to cover the plastic interior pieces was originally skived. Jim's uses the full thickness and this can make it difficult to fit the pieces back in place. I had the most trouble installing the pieces that go above the door panels. This also means that the folded and glued seams on the door pulls may show through, especially when you rest your elbow on it all the time.
On my seats, they did not install the tie-backs on the seat bottoms (both front and rear) so that might be something to talk to them about if you want that done. I would also consider the condition of the seat heaters. The stock ones can break when they un-stitch them. I had them install aftermarket heating pads.
If you're having rear headrests done, then tell them that the holes they cut for the posts are visible through the rear window and should be finished. You shouldn't be deterred by any of this -- just make sure you discuss the details that matter to you.
As far as getting Darin's help -- be careful. He demands a lot in return. I've been obligated to make the annual pilgrimage ever since. Seriously, you should take him up on his offer. Jim's can only get car parts if they originally grew on cow. It is best to supply any other parts that they might need.
Devinder
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New leather going in!
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TurboChris
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Thanks, Chris Kohler cleared it up for me...shouldn't be too difficult to rectify, I think.
Karl Grau wrote:Indeed it isTurboChris wrote:It's kind of a slippery slope.
BTW, I'm 'Charles', the guy who previously owned your M-Tech kit. Did you get an answer to your question about separating the metal bumper from the plastic?
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TurboChris
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Great info, thanks! All that needs to be addressed is the seats, the armrests and the ebrake handle. The console, boot and door panels, etc. are in very nice shape. Although the lower part of the door panels....what's that called...the outside of the open area where you put papers, documents etc does need to be addressed. The leather on that, while in great shape..just looks a little saggy...like it needs to be re-installed with adhesive or something. I'm going to ask about repairing it before replacing it.
When I first spoke to Brenda a month back or so, she stated it wasn't BMW leather at that time. I assume that's still the case.
What are the "tiebacks" that you're referring too?
When I first spoke to Brenda a month back or so, she stated it wasn't BMW leather at that time. I assume that's still the case.
What are the "tiebacks" that you're referring too?
Devinder wrote:Chris,
It sounds like you're having them do more than just the seats. I think I was one of the first to get more than just seats done (in an E28). They can definitely do the seats in two days but the rest of the pieces will take longer. Expect the cost of the doors, and console pieces to be more than the seats. They take more hides than the seats. Rear headrests can also add to the quote. BMW leather costs about 20% more -- I think this has to do with grain and color but I'm not sure because I chose a non-stock color anyway.
I'm happy with their work and I would definitely use them again, but I can offer advice that may help with some of the details.
Be careful with the ebrake handle. They don't do the thin stretched leather on the shifter, steering wheel and ebrake. At least that's what they told me. They will do the ebrake boot though.
There is a similar issue with the door panels and console pieces. I think the leather used by BMW to cover the plastic interior pieces was originally skived. Jim's uses the full thickness and this can make it difficult to fit the pieces back in place. I had the most trouble installing the pieces that go above the door panels. This also means that the folded and glued seams on the door pulls may show through, especially when you rest your elbow on it all the time.
On my seats, they did not install the tie-backs on the seat bottoms (both front and rear) so that might be something to talk to them about if you want that done. I would also consider the condition of the seat heaters. The stock ones can break when they un-stitch them. I had them install aftermarket heating pads.
If you're having rear headrests done, then tell them that the holes they cut for the posts are visible through the rear window and should be finished. You shouldn't be deterred by any of this -- just make sure you discuss the details that matter to you.
As far as getting Darin's help -- be careful. He demands a lot in return. I've been obligated to make the annual pilgrimage ever since. Seriously, you should take him up on his offer. Jim's can only get car parts if they originally grew on cow. It is best to supply any other parts that they might need.
Devinder
Devinder is right.., Be careful with the center console, shift area and ebrake. All of the leather BMW installed is thinned out using a very expensive splitter machine that I don't think Jims has on hand. Could be wrong.., but don't think so. When I recovered my center console I sent a whole hide to a company on the East Coast that restores pipe organs. Apparently they use various thicknesses of leather in the pipes to create the sound they need. Their machine can split leather down to .060" at 32" wide. Very impressive ! Also.., after the leather is split the backside is butt smooth and lays down with perfection. If you use leather right from the tannery most hides have a rough backside and this will show through to the surface when you glue the hide down.Devinder wrote:
Be very careful with the ebrake handle. They don't do the thin stretched leather on the shifter, steering wheel and ebrake. At least that's what they told me. They will do the ebrake boot though.
As far as getting Darin's help -- be careful. He demands a lot in return. I've been obligated to make the annual pilgrimage ever since. Seriously, you should take him up on his offer. Jim's can only get car parts if they originally grew on cow. It is best to supply any other parts that they might need.
Devinder
Also note.., I spent several days on the center console and had to make custom wood forms to press the leather into the ash tray area to hold it into position waiting for th glue to set. This part of the project is very very detailed and I'd only trust a fine automotive leather upholstery artisan to do the job right. I mean.., the thin leather used around the vent area I had to meticulously cut detailed angles with an exacto knife and fold into place.., pretty insane work for a company that mostly does seats. With that said though I'm still gonna have Jims do my seats
Last note.., the vertical face stitching on the front and back seats is suppose to be with a heavy gauge thread using a double needle machine. I have the double needle machine but I had to source my thread through a saddlery supply house in Texas. Not sure what Jims uses., just FYI, single needle stitching the seat faces is not the way to go. This stitch is not structural.., is for aesthetics so you want is to be done right.
Can't wait to see your car.
The seat bottoms are pulled down to the seat springs to create a depression that forms the seat. Same with the back seats. To do it right Jims should sew in a leather loop on the back side as they run the twin row stitch. This loop can then be used to tie on a heavy cord and pulled tight to the springs. Pretty common stuff for upholstery guys.TurboChris wrote:
What are the "tiebacks" that you're referring too?
Interesting, I was quoted $1500 locally for the manual sport seats and rear seat in tweed for my 745.TurboChris wrote:They give estimates freely over the phone. They quoted me $1400 for the front and back seats leather, including headrests. She estimated $40-50 for the e brake handle but wants to see the door armrests and lower door panel before she quotes them. Price is the same whether they R&R the seats out of the car or you bring them in.
Vance
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TurboChris
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Corner Carver
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TurboChris
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TurboChris
- Posts: 894
- Joined: Aug 21, 2010 1:22 AM
- Location: Costa Mesa, CA
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TurboChris
- Posts: 894
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- Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Not at all, the price at tisher is a couple bucks less than what I paid...so anyone can get as good a deal. But I didn't have to wait...just went and picked them up...that was the advantage for me.
desmofan wrote:Right, but I don't think everyone will be able to "score a set".TurboChris wrote:Plus $15 shipping, so my deal was still solid
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Corner Carver
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TurboChris
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