Shocks weren't bad to do, but I had a bad ABS sensor to replace, along with the broken mounting bolt for it. Lots of fun, breaking a drill bit, breaking a tap, but eventually succeeded. But the ABS still doesn't work.

The one and only time I tried those things I was 0 for 2 in getting it to operate, although at least I didn't get charged. So I broke out the little 12V one that runs off the lighter socket. Took a while to get the 245/65-17s up to pressure so I camped out under the canopy of one of the gas stations where their machine didn't work, since it was Mesquite Nevada and bloody hot in the sun.a wrote: Nov 04, 2021 6:58 PM hEH HEH On my trip to cardiac rehab the low TPMS fired off. There was a frost last night. Used the card on a new inflater, so much for the old time service station.
If its a 3.8 car, GM was doing this dumb thing around that time where they used a plastic elbow to connect coolant from the water pump through the alternator bracket for the heater core. Those plastic elbows fail pretty often. Aluminum ones exist. Might be worth a look down in that area.Mike W. wrote: Dec 11, 2021 9:05 PM
'97 Buick LeSabre. ... It's also got a coolant leak, not from the radiator, but I can't tell exactly where.
I know they may all be different, but how bad a job is doing R and P seals? My Datsun is leaking enough I've got a diaper under it so as not to leave too much on the pavement, Pick and Pull had a couple of weepers the last I looked, far better than mine, but not dry. Debating on so called rebuilt for about 225 or a kit which would be 75 with boots. Mines reasonably tight, but it leaks. A lot.gadget73 wrote: Feb 01, 2022 9:45 AM Rack on the Continental decided to void itself. Dumping out of the rack boot, which according to Ford could be literally any seal so change them all. I've had bad experiences with reman racks of this type before so I'll do it myself. The car drives very well so I'm hesitant to buy a reman rack thats just a worn out POS with fresh seals. Seal kit was 15 bucks. I've got most of the special tools, need to make a couple of seal drivers.
I did it once before, its not that hard on a Ford rack at least. The seal kit is several lip seals, some O rings, and some of those Teflon plastic sealing rings. I also bought boots and new inner tie rods so all-in I'll be around 50 bucks into this not counting the tools. The special tools are all for relatively obvious reasons. Odd size lock nuts, the thing that will couple the input shaft to a torque wrench for setting the preload, a puller for getting the valve assembly out of the housing. Tool set cost me about 80 bucks, so between the tools and parts I'm not saving anything other than the chance of getting a sloppy but not-leaky rack.Mike W. wrote: Feb 02, 2022 1:14 AM
I know they may all be different, but how bad a job is doing R and P seals? My Datsun is leaking enough I've got a diaper under it so as not to leave too much on the pavement, Pick and Pull had a couple of weepers the last I looked, far better than mine, but not dry. Debating on so called rebuilt for about 225 or a kit which would be 75 with boots. Mines reasonably tight, but it leaks. A lot.
The weather finally warmed up enough to work in the garage, so I put the new blower in today. Turned out it was the correct part number for my car so it fit with no issues.stuartinmn wrote: Jan 28, 2022 4:17 PM The heater blower motor in my e30 325iX decided to quit yesterday - the bearings in the motor seized up. Temps are in the single digits today, so it was not a great time for this to happen.I pulled it out and freed it up a little with some penetrating oil. It will now run, but only on full speed, and I can smell the motor windings starting to get hot if it runs too long so I have to cycle it on and off. When the car is moving there's still some air flow through the system with the blower off so it's not too bad. However, now the air coming out the vents reeks of Kroil.
At least accessing the blower motor is relatively easy on these cars.
I called Blunttech to order a new one. It turns out there were two different blower fan assemblies used in e30 cars depending on the year, and the one for mine is NLA...apparently the other one can be used if necessary, so I ordered that one and it should be here in a few days. Hopefully it will fit.
honest question. "original miles" as opposed to what exactly? I've never understood what that phrase is supposed to mean.
In this context im referring to the chassis original motor/trans. I would assume most people would use it like that.
My 535 was like that by the time I sold it. My comment was the roof was original.gadget73 wrote: Feb 24, 2022 10:00 AM OK. Was never entirely clear because I've seen people say it has X original miles, trans rebuilt at this, engine replaced at that. I have a car like that, about the only thing "original" at this point is the odometer.
Ooo. Looks like it got toasty in there I see a nice burned spot. I also see enough circuitry to run a handheld video game. I think the one on the touring is bad, 2 wires I didn't think it was a smart pump, but looking at that thing I guess it's not a simple device. Ah, the engineers matra, if it still works, it's not complicated enough yet.Karl Grau wrote: Mar 01, 2022 8:27 PM Replaced the auxiliary water pump on the e39. when i first looked at it, I thought it had just come unplugged. On closer inspection, it was still plugged in but the back part of the pump housing had separated from the main portion.