MyE28.com

I am scared of bears.

Local shop told me about it years ago. I had an idle issue and they told me how to adjust it. It's located in the intake boot. Requires a 3mm Allen tool I think.

That isn't a valve. It is a mixture adjustment screw.

I've considered unsubscribing too many times now.

mooseheadm5 wrote:That isn't a valve. It is a mixture adjustment screw.

That.

During my absence I talked to my brother and a friend about what might help. I just cleaned all the sensors (friends suggestion) And Im going to check the Fuel pump relay and the fuel distributor.

Aaaaaaaaaannnnnnd?

caleb 87 535is wrote:During my absence I talked to my brother and a friend about what might help. I just cleaned all the sensors (friends suggestion) And Im going to check the Fuel pump relay and the fuel distributor.

that's all you did? clean a few things!?

dude do you want this car to run or not!

I just had my buckets delivered. 1981 320i 5spd and a 323i TC1 Baur.

This should keep me busy for awhile.

lt was the Bellow/rubber boot coming off the Air flow meter into the air intake. Its got a pretty good sized crack in it. thats been the problem the entire time.

Wow.

After 2 Dos Equis, .

caleb 87 535is wrote:lt was the Bellow/rubber boot coming off the Air flow meter into the air intake. Its got a pretty good sized crack in it. thats been the problem the entire time.

Dude If I lived in wyoming, I would steal that car from you.

Looking past crap like that---well that is wrong.

I'm pretty sure I told you to check vaccum leaks 1st--then deal with the other shit.....

But no no no no, you wanted to do the harlem shake all around that e21 and I'm actually sitting here in chicago laughing.

oh--here it is...MARCH 20TH

pleasefixitup wrote: 1. vaccum leaks
2. temp sender
3. fuel injectors and seals

Seriously? Dude. Sell all your bimmers, cut your losses and buy a 2005+ Honda civic, then have it maintained by a dealer and be a happy sad little man like the rest of humanity. That kind of neglect, stubbornness not to observe, ignorance in the face of solid advise, failing to check, and let alone double check, will end in a car fire, and or a giant bill for parts you DON'T need.



A GIANT crack in the air intake boot would have been the first thing ANYONE who advised you here would have seen. Frankly, any mechanic worth his salt, even if they don't specialize in old cars, would have seen that issue. Your wyotech friend must be blind as a bat, just like you.



The 3 stooges picture above is a clear representation of how everyone views you now mate.

Hey now, I'm sure it was an honest mistake. That boot is kinda hard to see on an e21.

If he were transgender, you'd all be praising his bravery and love for his car...

Kyle

This deserves a face palm from my own kid:

Considering the fact that the boot is almost completely hidden by the air intake and its a crack thats partially covered by the clamp and is around the bottom. I did check it for cracks the best i could. It was only till I had a set of smaller hands to help me(gf) and some time later that the crack was noticeable. Due to the varying heat here in wyoming it made the crack bigger. And now that I Under stand C.I.S allot better making proper evaluations of the system is allot easier.
It now makes perfect sense why the the RPM shot up and it died. Since the only thing controlling the fuel flow is the air meter This will be a simple fix once the parts get here tuesday. will post a video of the car running.

As you can see the boot is almost completely hidden by the Air intake system. My hands are too big to reach around to the back part of the boot even with the air filter taken off. I had the gf stick her hand around to the back to see if there was a crack there and she can stick her finger through it. When we found this out I got on autohausaz, and ordered all the parts I need to fix it. The gf would kill me if i sold my beamers.......[/img]

Now that you've done some real research, you can see why everyone was telling you not to fool with the fuel pumps or ignition. Much easier to diagnose once you figure out how it actually functions.

Kyle in NO wrote:Now that you've done some real research, you can see why everyone was telling you not to fool with the fuel pumps or ignition. Much easier to diagnose once you figure out how it actually functions.

Agreed. And I apologise for being a prick and not listening. But I learned the hard way and now i know better.

caleb 87 535is wrote:I had the gf stick her hand around to the back to see if there was a crack there and she can stick her finger through it.

Hope to see it running soon.

caleb 87 535is wrote:Considering the fact that the boot is almost completely hidden by the air intake and its a crack thats partially covered by the clamp and is around the bottom. I did check it for cracks the best i could. It was only till I had a set of smaller hands to help me(gf) and some time later that the crack was noticeable. Due to the varying heat here in wyoming it made the crack bigger. And now that I Under stand C.I.S allot better making proper evaluations of the system is allot easier.
It now makes perfect sense why the the RPM shot up and it died. Since the only thing controlling the fuel flow is the air meter This will be a simple fix once the parts get here tuesday. will post a video of the car running.

As you can see the boot is almost completely hidden by the Air intake system. My hands are too big to reach around to the back part of the boot even with the air filter taken off. I had the gf stick her hand around to the back to see if there was a crack there and she can stick her finger through it. When we found this out I got on autohausaz, and ordered all the parts I need to fix it. The gf would kill me if i sold my beamers.......[/img]

It really is just two bolts and a hose clamp away from being very visible. Take the air box out and you'll see what I'm talking about.

If you have a hole on the backside it's probably from constant exposure to oil, you may have a leaking valve cover.

If not, then it's probably because all the rubber components under the hood are at the natural end of their life and should be replaced.

Go to the parts store and buy two cans of Gunk engine degreaser and get busy cleaning that engine bay. It's not surprising that you're having a hard time finding faults, everything looks coated in grime and muck. Once you've properly cleaned and detailed the bay, you'll be surprised at how easy it is to find problems just buy looking.

Twelvizm wrote:
It really is just two bolts and a hose clamp away from being very visible. Take the air box out and you'll see what I'm talking about.

If you have a hole on the backside it's probably from constant exposure to oil, you may have a leaking valve cover.

If not, then it's probably because all the rubber components under the hood are at the natural end of their life and should be replaced.

Go to the parts store and buy two cans of Gunk engine degreaser and get busy cleaning that engine bay. It's not surprising that you're having a hard time finding faults, everything looks coated in grime and muck. Once you've properly cleaned and detailed the bay, you'll be surprised at how easy it is to find problems just buy looking.

I do have a leaking valve cover and I need to replace the valve cover gasket but I dont have a torque wrench. This will more than likely sound stupid but. I don't have to remove the air intake to replace it?? Cause thats what I'm being told..... Cause if I don't Then I will do it myself after I clean up the engine bay.

caleb 87 535is wrote:

Twelvizm wrote:
It really is just two bolts and a hose clamp away from being very visible. Take the air box out and you'll see what I'm talking about.

If you have a hole on the backside it's probably from constant exposure to oil, you may have a leaking valve cover.

If not, then it's probably because all the rubber components under the hood are at the natural end of their life and should be replaced.

Go to the parts store and buy two cans of Gunk engine degreaser and get busy cleaning that engine bay. It's not surprising that you're having a hard time finding faults, everything looks coated in grime and muck. Once you've properly cleaned and detailed the bay, you'll be surprised at how easy it is to find problems just buy looking.

I do have a leaking valve cover and I need to replace the valve cover gasket but I dont have a torque wrench. This will more than likely sound stupid but. I don't have to remove the air intake to replace it?? Cause thats what I'm being told..... Cause if I don't Then I will do it myself after I clean up the engine bay.

You don't need to remove any of the intake (other than a breather tube) to replace the valve cover gasket. You also don't need a torque wrench either, just use a 1/4" drive socket and ratchet and only "wrist strength" when you re- install the cover with the new gasket. Quit listening to whoever it is that doesn't know BMWs and you will save yourself a lot of headaches!

Mark 88/M5 Houston wrote:

caleb 87 535is wrote:

Twelvizm wrote:
It really is just two bolts and a hose clamp away from being very visible. Take the air box out and you'll see what I'm talking about.

If you have a hole on the backside it's probably from constant exposure to oil, you may have a leaking valve cover.

If not, then it's probably because all the rubber components under the hood are at the natural end of their life and should be replaced.

Go to the parts store and buy two cans of Gunk engine degreaser and get busy cleaning that engine bay. It's not surprising that you're having a hard time finding faults, everything looks coated in grime and muck. Once you've properly cleaned and detailed the bay, you'll be surprised at how easy it is to find problems just buy looking.

I do have a leaking valve cover and I need to replace the valve cover gasket but I dont have a torque wrench. This will more than likely sound stupid but. I don't have to remove the air intake to replace it?? Cause thats what I'm being told..... Cause if I don't Then I will do it myself after I clean up the engine bay.

You don't need to remove any of the intake (other than a breather tube) to replace the valve cover gasket. You also don't need a torque wrench either, just use a 1/4" drive socket and ratchet and only "wrist strength" when you re- install the cover with the new gasket. Quit listening to whoever it is that doesn't know BMWs and you will save yourself a lot of headaches!

Will do, Ill have to get a gasket for it Monday. And ill hopefully not need to fix anything to serious after this. Taking it To my friend Claus to do a once over to see if there is anything else i should need to replace or fix.

Someone has got to say



-of girlfriend-

Boy; I've been missing out. Just read the whole thing, would read again.

Somebody really must make a movie from this thread. = EPIC!

davintosh wrote:Boy; I've been missing out. Just read the whole thing, would read again.

Somebody really must make a movie from this thread. = EPIC!

... and add to that "advice" thread.

pleasefixitup wrote:oh--here it is...MARCH 20TH

pleasefixitup wrote: 1. vaccum leaks
2. temp sender
3. fuel injectors and seals

My friend, it is good to see you finally indoctrinated into our friendly little forum!