535i "Project Sepang" build -08/05/18 update

[davintosh]

Lookin' good, Roy!

Had to smile at your choice of door card colors:



I went the opposite direction, kept the PB center section, and swapped in black armrests/handles & surrounds.

[trevmmeister]

Just scrolled through every single page of this thread and I have to say... I am utterly amazed. I thought my '88 535is was in good shape then I saw this all and had a smile on my face the entire time. Roy you are living the dream, amazing piece of art. I look forward to following this page until the end.

[RoyW]

Did a little work on the car over the past week and made some more, albeit slow, progress... but, today it was "one step forward, two steps back"... which I'll elaborate on a little further down this update.

My friend Steve came over and our primary goal was to move the inter-cooler radiator up, so the euro M5 valance could be attached to the euro front apron that was on the car and hide that radiator (you may recall that the front apron had been modified with a bigger center opening to accommodate the small inter-cooler radiator, when it was up at VSR for body & paint work)

So, here's a summary of the work done this week (mostly today) and the problems encountered:

- secured small washer tank to inside of fender, under hood
- installed extra brake lights and brighter lamps in the taillights assemblies
- dyed front seat backs to match Beige color on rest of interior, e.g., seats
- installed trunk carpet pieces and removed antenna to replace it was a chrome one (had a shadowline one there originally)
- installed stock sound padding under parcel shelf and rear seat area
- installed rear seat belts
- installed back of rear seat (still have some speaker wires to connect to cross-overs, so holding off on seat bottom for a while)
- removed inter-cooler radiator, and Steve fabricated some brackets with 1" x 1/8"th aluminum flat stock and we moved it up a couple inches, so the M5 valance could fit over and hide the radiator (but still allow for adequate airflow for cooling). Thank God for rivnuts! This took a while and was a lot of trail and error with the brackets, also moving or removing some things that were in the way, but, we were able to move it up and secure everything properly
- measured and marked where the holes needed to be drilled in the front apron, so the studs that are integrated in the valance would line up and allow for proper fitment & mounting.
- attempted to install the valance to the apron... it wouldn't fit right... it looks to be about 1/2" or so to small overall!! When we put the studs that are at the two ends of the valance (near the front of the wheels) into the holes we had drilled in the apron, the center of the valance was pulled so tight it didn't line up with the crease on the apron, but rather was under it and wavy in the center!! We also had to drill a couple of new holes in the apron for the studs that were further in-board on the valance (about a third of the way from each end), as they didn't line up as they should have from our initial markings. We then removed the valance from my M5 and tried this new euro M5 valance on it... it was snug, but it fit just fine. Now we are really confused!!

Here's some background on the euro apron and valance. When I bought the car, it came with all new parts for the euro bumper conversion, including the euro metal apron, that the PO was planning to have installed. When we installed the custom larger, single inter-cooler radiator (rather that two small one that were initially in the Stage II Turbo kit from TCD), it therefore required that the euro front apron be slightly modified with a larger opening in the center (the sheet metal was cut to make room for the radiator as it was initially installed,and then it was prepped, painted, and installed on the car). When I picked the car up at VSR after painting, I noticed the apron didn't have any openings where the tow hooks are located, and the small squares on the top center of the apron, under the front grill, were solid and not cut out like on my M5's apron??? I called Chris Kohler and he informed me that BMW made a "cab" version of that apron that got installed on certain e28s... it didn't have the tow-hook openings or the cut-outs on the top, but, it was otherwise the same (I later found out that this valance also didn't have the holes pre-drilled for attachment of a valance). I surmise that this is the apron the PO got either by mistake or was all that was available in stock??

Anyway, since I was then looking for a way to hide this radiator, as it was now so prominent and visible, I figured a valance would do the job. And, after considering other after-market alternatives or some fabricated approach, I decided on the euro M5 valance, like the one on my M5 which has the exact same euro conversion. A few months back, when Steve and I were taking measurements of the valance that was on the my M5, to see how far up the radiator would have to be moved to allow a M5 valance to cover it, etc., we concluded it would do the job... and, I'd have the clean, simply look I was after. So, I ordered the M5 euro valance. When it came in didn't have the center cut-outs for air-flow (of the oil-cooler on the S38)??? We ordered another one (there were 3 available), it came in the same way! OK, I'll just have to go on the back side of the valance and Dremmel out those cut-outs, no problem.

So, today when the valance wouldn't fit on/over the apron (wasn't really close) we were/are perplexed? We will try again in a couple weeks to solve this mystery... meanwhile, I'll be doing a little research and seeing if anyone has any thoughts on what the problem is? So far this evening I discovered, via the ETK, the following about the euro apron and the euro valance:

- the euro apron part # for the 535, the M5, the 524td, and the 528e are all identical (41 33 1 922 063)
- the euro apron part # for the 528i (061),the 533 (065) are different in the last 3 digits
- the "cab" option shows for the 528i, but it shows the same 063 part number for that apron as for the 535, M5, and 528 apron????? Huh????

I would think that the shape and size of any e28 euro apron would be identical, and the only difference would be with the "cut-outs" and/or "stud holes drilled"? At least for the 535, M5, and e28 ones?

As for the euro "valance"... the part numbers for the 535, the M5, and the 528i euro valances are all different, but the ETK pictures look identical and the tow covers, etc., are all the same #s?? Again, I'd guess that the shape and size of these valances are identical, just the center cut-out might be different??

So, I need to figure out why my euro valance doesn't fit on my euro apron... or what mix and match issue I have (I don't know what the part # was for the apron, as that was bought by the PO... but I do know the one I ordered for the M5 valance)? Anyway, we'll see what I learn and proceed accordingly... or it's "fab" time!

Here are some pics of the above referenced work.

-RoyW







This picture shows the radiator before we moved it up, note new M5 valance on ground, without center cut-outs


Installing rivnuts in frame to bolt bracket/radiator to

radiator with bracket secured to frame

radiator moved up and installed...couple inches higher than in earlier picture


tape on apron with white markings where holes for valance studs are to be drilled

This is the valance we took off the M5... note center cut-outs for air flow to oil cooler

This is the new M5 valance I ordered and got form BMW. Note no center cut-outs for air flow

[wkohler]

Roy, the spoiler should fit on the valance. It is a tight fit, and what helps is to make sure your mounting holes in the valance are large enough to make fine adjustments. I usually start in the middle, but that doesn't seem to be something you can do. There should be more fasteners than I'm seeing holes for, too.

[RoyW]

Roy, the spoiler should fit on the valance. It is a tight fit, and what helps is to make sure your mounting holes in the valance are large enough to make fine adjustments. I usually start in the middle, but that doesn't seem to be something you can do. There should be more fasteners than I'm seeing holes for, too.

Chris... you are right about there not being enough holes, as there should be three more, one for the very center stud and the other two that are just to it's left and right... but, the apron has been cut to accommodate the inter-cooler radiator just where those holes would need to be in the apron. When we put the valance on, starting at each corner, the valance was pulled under the crease (or dip) in the apron in the center area and was all wavy as it transitioned from over that crease/dip to just under it.

But, I'm now thinking that you're right (that it should fit), and if the apron wasn't cut out where those holes would need to be for those three studs in the valance, and there was more of that metal apron in place (and not cut out), then the valance would have something behind it to help keep its shape and not allow it to slip under that crease/dip in the apron.

See these two pics below, one of the M5 apron with the three mounting holes mentioned above, and the second of the same apron (but on the project car) with the cut out for the radiator, thus no holes for mounting or apron structure to keep the valance from being pulled back under that crease/dip in the apron.

Thanks for the help... now, back to the drawing board

-RoyW

[wkohler]

Yes, Roy those three holes are key. There should also be holes in the corners of the valance too at the Apex of the bend. The big problem is that the valance is what gives the spoiler its shape. Without it it will just fall apart and flop around. I was afraid of that. I hate to mention it, but I think the Hartge front spoiler will do exactly what you want and it will flow to your side skirts and rear skirt.

[RoyW]

Yes, Roy those three holes are key. There should also be holes in the corners of the valance too at the Apex of the bend. The big problem is that the valance is what gives the spoiler its shape. Without it it will just fall apart and flop around. I was afraid of that. I hate to mention it, but I think the Hartge front spoiler will do exactly what you want and it will flow to your side skirts and rear skirt.

Taking Chris' advice, I'm moving to Plan B and will go with a Hartge front valance... same as the one I had on my former M5 track car (see pic below) Awaiting shipment from Paul L, then fitment and paint.

-RoyW

[Dinan e28]

I would be tempted to just leave the inter cooler radiator exposed just like it is.

I agree with the above sentiment. I'd run the Hartge spoiler to match the rear valance which appears to be Hartge(?). There is a version with a cut-out for an oil cooler. I believe it would provide a much more finished look.

Great build.

I would modify the Hartge Its fiberglass any way. Other wise the rear and side skirts don't make since.

Glad you went back to the Hartge idea.

[GaAlpinaOwner]

Yes, Roy those three holes are key. There should also be holes in the corners of the valance too at the Apex of the bend. The big problem is that the valance is what gives the spoiler its shape. Without it it will just fall apart and flop around. I was afraid of that. I hate to mention it, but I think the Hartge front spoiler will do exactly what you want and it will flow to your side skirts and rear skirt.

Taking Chris' advice, I'm moving to Plan B and will go with a Hartge front valance... same as the one I had on my former M5 track car (see pic below) Awaiting shipment from Paul L, then fitment and paint.

-RoyW

Now that will look cool for the Turbo ... good stuff

[GaAlpinaOwner]

My good friend Eddie (from T.O.) did a great rendering of what my 535i project car will look like when its completed... right down to the bumpers, trim, wheels, TCD turbo, and two-tone paint scheme it will have. It going to be bitchin' He calls it "Project Sepang"... I think I like that and will adopt that moniker during the build phase.

-RoyW

Are those the actual wheels that will be installed on this car?

Yes. Fikse FM-5s size17x8

-RoyW

But you already knew dat!

[RoyW]

Spent about 6 hours yesterday wet-sanding all the horizontal surfaces with 2500 grit paper, and then doing a first pass polishing with Meguiars Ultra Cut Compound #105. Still have the #205 and a glaze to do, before a coat of wax. And, of course, then the same to all the vertical surfaces. The new paint was wet-sanded at VSR back in November, but the final pass was left to me and I wanted to wait until a little more curing time had past and the majority of the re-build was done... in case of any minor scratches, etc., during these past 4 months in the barn.

I also did the small vertical trunk lid surface (under the spoiler), up and including the wax coat, so I could put the emblem with my unique variant on the lid... it looks pretty cool I think

Next weekend, we're hoping to finish up the stereo system, the dash area, front seats, and rear seat bottom install. Also, the gauge pod and gauges in the center dash vent area.

Here are a few pictures of yesterday's work.

-RoyW





Hood after 2500 grit wet-sand

Hood after Maguiars #105 polish



new emblem with "custom" 535 variant

[Coldswede]

It is always a bit scary to wet sand new paint, no matter how correct you know it is. Watching the shiny new paint go dull and hazy is just wrong. The end result, apparent here, is great though. It looks great Roy.

[Eddie in TO]

superb!

almost there!!!

[alpinamotorsport]

that car is just nuts. who did the seats?

[RoyW]

that car is just nuts. who did the seats?

I did them... Leatherique dye kit treatment... light beige color.

-RoyW

[GBel]

Beautiful Roy. I can't wait to see it.

Gary

[RoyW]

Had a lot of help today for a few hours with the usual gang (Brad, Steve, & Ian) and made some good progress on the car. Here's a quick summary of the work accomplished:

- filled the inter-cooler with coolant ( started car and then discovered a leak in one of the hoses caused by our drilling when attempting to mount the M5 valance to the apron a couple weeks ago... nicked one hose near brass connector...shortened that hose and re-connected)
- started engine to confirm no further leaks and bled cooling system. Then, checked all electricals, e.g., lights, wipers, sunroof, horn, etc.
- installed "A" pillars, overhead trim panel, sun visors, glove box
- more progress made on stereo system, including: power block installed to secondary battery; in-line fuse from primary to secondary battery installed, head unit installed, rear speaker connections made. Decided to do small custom panels in front kick area for the 5" front speakers (not enough depth where stock 3x5s were for the 5" speakers)
- installed rear seat bottom and front seats, as well as steering wheel

Last week I picked up the "Y" pipe from a custom exhaust shop... the whole exhaust system (SuperSprint) will be done as soon as my trailer is free from the snow banks that currently surround it, so I can take it to a shop for installation. Until then, I hope to fit the Hartge front valance (as soon as it arrives from Paul LaDue) and then get it prepped and painted so it can be installed with the lights, grills, etc.... thus completing the front of the car.
I anticipate one more work session to finish up the sound system, the gauges/pod, and a few other odds and ends, then up to VSR for windshield install and a couple other small things. If all goes as planned (and it never does) we hope to be finished by early May.
Here's some pictures of today's work
-RoyW

[wkohler]

Nice progress!

[Hffvdbl]

I really like what you did with the interior

[RoyW]

The Hartge (replica) valance arrived from Paul L on Wednesday, so my friend Steve came over today and we fit it up... took a fair amount of minor trimming in a number of places to get it to fit properly and for the euro bumper to slide in easily. We must have had that thing on and off the car 6 times making adjustments (trimming) before we got it right. Even with that, we had to remove the foam gasket around the turn signal assemblies to get them to fit properly in the valance openings (I'll try to find something a little thinner to use in the place of the stock foam and re-apply it around the lens before we finalize the assembly). We will drill the mounting holes in the valance (top edge area) and into the metal apron when we finalize the install after the valance is painted (I need to go get a bunch of SS fasteners for this job)

We also re-secured the inter-cooler radiator, as the rivnut on one side off the "L" bracket that was attached to the tabs on the radiator wasn't holding (we removed both rivnuts and used nuts, washer, and bolts instead).

Then, we "borrowed" the edge protection seals from another e28, in order to nearly complete the interior and put all the sill plates on. We discovered that the front seat belts for this original car (535i that had comfort seats) don't have the necessary angled step-out piece where the seat belt attaches to the side of front seats to work properly with sport seats (in order to fit around the black plastic trim cover that goes over the area on the side of the seat where the seat back and seat bottom meet). We figured a satisfactory work-around, rather than have to find a set of M5 or 535is front seat belts and remove the "B" pillar, etc., to R&R the belts. All's well

Next, I'll be bringing the car back up to VSR for the new windshield to be installed; the short shift kit installed (forgot to do that earlier); and the Hartge valance to be prepped & painted. Then its back the barn for assembly of the front end, e.g., valance, lights, grills, etc., and a few other minor items, e.g., wipers, gauges, front kick panel speakers. I'm sure I'm forgetting a few other small items, but we're in the home stretch... except of course for the "tuning" that is needed get it running properly and smoothly with the MegaSquirt... right now it starts every time, but runs like crap Peter Florance here I come!

Here a few pics from today's work.

-RoyW

[RoyW]

Well, a lot has happened in the past month since my last update... which all started with my bringing the 535 back up to VSR a couple weeks ago for a windshield install and a few other "lift required" items, e.g., exhaust system finalized, install new shifter selector rod & new tranny mounts, plus, of course, the painting of the Hartge front valance. Moving the car into the trailer for the journey to NH was the first time it had been more than just "started" since the engine was installed months ago, and I noticed that when giving it some gas, it was missing badly and would sputter, cough, backfire, and basically not want to run very well. But, I loaded it anyway and figure we solve that problem later or perhaps it was just a "tuning " issue with the TCD turbo/MegaSquirt system which would get resolved by Peter Florance in later May.

I picked up the car and the painted valance from VSR last week with most all the work completed (the UUC double shear shifter selector rod wasn't installed as it was the wrong size... the right sized replacement is on its way). So, we got back to work on the car this past weekend, hoping to get the last 10% or so completed for the planned trip to The Vintage. After talking to Peter F about the poor running condition, it was determined that this wasn't a "tuning" problem, but something else fundamental, and we should solve it before coming down to his shop in VA for the final tune and dyno. VSR had discovered the previous week that the #1 and #5 plug wires were reversed at the distributor (my goof) when it was at their shop, but despite this, it still was running badly (just a little less badly, but not "missing":)).... still smoky (un-burnt fuel), rough, rich, etc., but at least not back-firing! After taking all the spark plugs out and finding them all very wet, we concluded (duh!) that it was getting way to much fuel. So, after a call to Peter F. and more discussion, we discovered that we hadn't connected the vacuum tube from the MegaSquirt ECU to the engine intake side... thus, it apparently thought we were at full throttle and therefore had the injectors pushing max fuel! We hooked up the vacuum line... walla!!!...problem solved

She now runs fine, but with a too low of an idle that Peter will address when tuning. YEH!!!

With this issue behind us, we next tackled the mounting of the Hartge valance. This went pretty well, and after some leveling, drilling, a little minor trimming, etc., it was secured to the euro apron and the euro bumper was mounted (this part was not so easy, due to limited access to the bolts that connect it to the frame rail). Lastly the lights (turns and driving lights) were installed, then the plate mounting panel and the head-light grills. We discovered that I need some "coverings" for the areas next to the driving lights to hide the screws for those lights... probably make some.

So, with a week + left (before Vintage) there are a number of things left to do, e.g., wipers, windshield washer nozzles, antenna, stereo system completion, sunroof adjustment, proper connectors for and the wiring up of the lights, etc. Plus, some things that will simply have to wait until later, e.g., install of selector rod, gauges, and, most importantly, a shake-down period of driving. But, as of now I plan to head to Peter's in VA a week from Wednesday and then on to The Vintage from there.... the car just needs to be able to drive on and off the trailer a few times and then from the hotel to Old Salem village for the Event... it should be able to do that


Here are some pictures of the work from this weekend, and a few I took today when I brought it outside.

-RoyW


freshly painted Hartge valance

getting at the plugs with that intercooler in the way is a PITA

had the tailpipes shortened by a couple inches for the euro bumper & rear valance



the two center openings at the bottom of the valance are perfectly positioned for airflow to the inter-cooler radiator

Need to make some coverings to hide the bolts of the driving lights

stance looks pretty good

[tig]

Brilliant. Just brilliant.

[Coldswede]

If someone like Roy can confuse spark plug wires, it means there is hope for me yet! Maybe.

The car looks great Roy, I can't wait to see in a couple weeks!

[wkohler]

BMW makes the part you need to cover the bolts. Just the standard part. Look in RealOEM under vehicle trim, then grille and I think its number 12 in the diagram. Numbers end in 653 and 654. The grommet is needed too but I don't think the spoiler has the hole you need.

[Eddie in TO]

Wow.
I'm glad that Hartge front spoiler worked out. It looks killer.

[Matt in SC]

Very nice!!

[M. Holtmeier]

Wow, I'm blown away with this build. You are going to drive this car?

[trevmmeister]

Roy, your bimmer is absolutely beautiful. Just gorgeous. I am in love and somewhat inspired to put some true love into my '87 535is and get the windows tinted, new rims and wheels, tail lights fixed, re-wax her....

But that's besides the point, you have created a masterpiece here Roy.

[Ted in T.O.]

Roy, your bimmer is absolutely beautiful. Just gorgeous. I am in love and somewhat inspired to put some true love into my '87 535is and get the windows tinted, new rims and wheels, tail lights fixed, re-wax her....

But that's besides the point, you have created a masterpiece here Roy.

As always.

[leadphut]