
Also welded and sealed my new battery tray. Used the UPOL Tiger seal as I did with the rest of the car.

Thats a cool instrument that I play.rubix_cube12 wrote: And viola.










And an intentionally slow 528e; I am still confused as to why someone would intentionally build a slow car, but that's just me.leadphut wrote:this thread is full of win
Well to be honest, I had not planned to build this car even as far as it is at its stage. But one thing led to another and I've gotten too attached.cek wrote:And an intentionally slow 528e; I am still confused as to why someone would intentionally build a slow car, but that's just me.leadphut wrote:this thread is full of win
So that there is room for improvementscek wrote:But why are you trying to make it SLOW!?!
rubix_cube12 wrote:I finally got a chance to get back to this project.
Had to deal with my dd and prep it for the winter so took a couple weeks off of this one.
But I got started. Dropped the rear suspension completely. Also took the fronts out.
The plan is to completely clean the undercarriage, fix up a few issues that weren't addressed earlier due to visibility reasons. But now since everything is off, looks to be the last of the cancer bits.
These are the areas of concern. I need the rear subframe mounts dealt with. Hopefully the car will drive better without any play in the suspension.
The transmission mount has a little bit of rust in areas. I'll take care of this as well.
And I also had a serious area to fix up. The drivers side front sway bar has rusted into the frame. The plan is to cut a portion of the frame out that's rusted out and fabricate a new piece to weld in. I do have m5 sways that I'll be running Afterwards. Passenger side is fine.
I did have one clean area under the car. That's under the heat shield.
I wish it all looked like this under there. Once I recover the undercarriage with new undercoating, I'm planning to use black.
Now the fun starts in disassembling the rear suspension and welding my toe/camber plates. I Will be getting the rear subframe powder coated also.

























Too bad you are not in the area necessarily anymore. I would love to get in contact with some of your Seattle contacts for some info/help with some struggles I have. Turns out these new wheel speed sensors I installed are not the correct ones. About a 1/4 inch too long. Purchased them about 4-5 years ago.cek wrote:I <3 you.



Uh, that stuff was a bit of a mistake.
rubix_cube12 wrote:Too bad you are not in the area necessarily anymore. I would love to get in contact with some of your Seattle contacts for some info/help with some struggles I have. Turns out these new wheel speed sensors I installed are not the correct ones. About a 1/4 inch too long. Purchased them about 4-5 years ago.cek wrote:I <3 you.
Anyone know the correct p/n for these?
And if anyone needs these, let me know. Not sure what model it’s from but definitely not for my car. They were installed in the car but never used.
Did a little test fit with my new e34 540i front calipers. Still need to get the tears and order rotors/pads. Should stop better than originals. Should have went with the e34 m5 fronts. I still might. These are 60/28/302.
Used CEK’s method of covering the firewall from Vlad. Worked pretty well. We’ll see how it is with the engine in.
i never fixed mine due to having engine in place already so i cannot comment. Old muscle car rebuilding forums may have a good answer for you.rubix_cube12 wrote:Any recommendations on what you guys used that works?
Try searching on something like "automotive heat shield material" on Amazon. I bought some of this stuff today for a similar issue. It's specified for "Heat protection to up to 850 degrees Fahrenheit." From personal testing, my manifolds ran in the range of 550-600 at normal operating temp while idling in still air - so this stuff should work well on the firewall.rubix_cube12 wrote:Any recommendations on what you guys used that works?