So I've increased my range of potential parts cars to the early models as well. And I may have found one: a 1989 750iL with "143k miles and locked rear brakes." Will keep everyone updated.
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Sbeckman7's Project: BR1
Well, not much has changed. I'm looking at saws, hoping to end up with a horizontal band saw like I had at school. Wheels/tires have been chosen: 17" Style 5's with 245's all around (or something like that). Arranging to start on the floor in the next week or two. And I've decided to not use the ASC+T system from the 750's as they are much more complex than I thought:
So I've increased my range of potential parts cars to the early models as well. And I may have found one: a 1989 750iL with "143k miles and locked rear brakes." Will keep everyone updated.
So I've increased my range of potential parts cars to the early models as well. And I may have found one: a 1989 750iL with "143k miles and locked rear brakes." Will keep everyone updated.
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mooseheadm5
- Beamter
- Posts: 23035
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- Location: Charlottesville, VA
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Shouldn't be a problem if the car wasn't equipped with ASC+T in the first place. I am considering standalone once I get the project driving. Wanna see how it is first. Only reason I would go to standalone as of now is to turbocharge.mooseheadm5 wrote:On those cars I believe that the ASC+T is integrated into the throttle computer. Unless you want to give it all the signals it needs it may want to run in limp mode. My vote is to use any 750iL engine and run a standalone fuel injection.
I would think with the more modern engine standalone would be less of a headache no matter what. You could make a custom harness if you're even halfway decent with a soldering iron and some heat shrink. DIYAutoTune.com has their 12' harness for like 75 bucks or something. Add in the cost of sourced connectors from the yard and an MSII and you're there.
Or you could make an adapter harness, but I've always thought that on more complex harnesses it's easier to have touched each wire.
Or you could make an adapter harness, but I've always thought that on more complex harnesses it's easier to have touched each wire.
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firefirefire90
- Posts: 253
- Joined: Mar 18, 2011 7:23 PM
- Location: San Francisco
If you're a member on BimmerBoard or BimmerForums, post that photo up on the e32 pages to see if anyone knows if that's a special order color. Shogun is usually quick to respond to questions on either forum and is the Chris Kohler of the e32 world.sbeckman7 wrote:Thanks man, I really appreciate it.
Anyone familiar with e32's? I'm going to check one out tomorrow and the interior looks special, or unusual at least. Any ideas?
I haven't seen a lot of e32s, but every one has had a black dash. Can't imagine dash color would be an easy thing to change for limited quantities.http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/e32
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/fo ... .php?f=299
And thanks for the regular updates on your project. Great fun to watch your progress!
Thanks davintosh! I already posted on the e32 section before here, got an answer last night. Apparently it's "Saddle Tan". Cool 
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh ... ?t=1671616
Updates: got a drill press from my friend Daniel, found another parts car. Black on grey, so no peanut butter-reeses , but only 93k on the clock. Its in the same area as the other so i might just check both of them out.
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh ... ?t=1671616
Updates: got a drill press from my friend Daniel, found another parts car. Black on grey, so no peanut butter-reeses
, but only 93k on the clock. Its in the same area as the other so i might just check both of them out.
The parts car is home and I've already started on the interior, getting ready to dissect the wiring harness. It's definitely a step up from the e28 in terms of complexity, but the same label-as-you-go method is working well. Unfortunately most of the leather bits on the car have at least one scratch, so I don't know how much of it I'll be able to sell, but the engine runs beautifully. I have noticed that the sensors are broken; I get low oil and coolant warnings but both of them are topped up, so I'm not sure what that's about. Today i removed the glovebox and all the panels in the driver and passenger footwells. Going back for a night shift, for fun. It's nice having the car in my driveway as supposed to driving 10 minutes to get to it like last time.
you can tell it's a parts car because of the official looking wood propping the hood open
headlights look exceptional, I'll probably swap them onto my car. Hood has a few dents
front quarter panel is strangely oxidized
progress pics tomorrow
you can tell it's a parts car because of the official looking wood propping the hood open
headlights look exceptional, I'll probably swap them onto my car. Hood has a few dents
front quarter panel is strangely oxidized
progress pics tomorrow
You're putting the V12 in your roadster? 
The coolant sensor is a cheap & easy fix, but given the placement of the coolant overflow bottle, you may not want to carry it over to the engine's new home. I believe the oil pressure switch in the M70 is similar to that in the M30, and easy to replace. In the e32 it might be difficult to reach, but...sbeckman7 wrote:... I have noticed that the sensors are broken; I get low oil and coolant warnings but both of them are topped up, so I'm not sure what that's about...
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slammin_e28
- Posts: 6135
- Joined: Aug 05, 2007 4:57 PM
- Location: 24477
V12's were all alusil, but you were told to stay away for a reason. They have a reputation for being pieces of junk due to lack of maintainess. I got lucky with my parts car and even if I hadn't found one like this, I thought it was worth the risk for 12 cylinders.slammin_e28 wrote:OT, but did they use nikisil in the early M70?
I was always told to stay away from e32 V12s.
Also, just as al buying tip, the general consensus of Nilsson blocks is if it hasn't busted yet, it's not going to.
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slammin_e28
- Posts: 6135
- Joined: Aug 05, 2007 4:57 PM
- Location: 24477
Nikisil?sbeckman7 wrote:V12's were all alusil, but you were told to stay away for a reason. They have a reputation for being pieces of junk due to lack of maintainess. I got lucky with my parts car and even if I hadn't found one like this, I thought it was worth the risk for 12 cylinders.slammin_e28 wrote:OT, but did they use nikisil in the early M70?
I was always told to stay away from e32 V12s.
Also, just as al buying tip, the general consensus of Nilsson blocks is if it hasn't busted yet, it's not going to.
Yeah, I read up on 'em before buying my M60. I made sure to get an Alusil though.
That outta be a very interesting project with the M70 going in there! I like where this is going!
I would have appreciated that as much as you would have, but the dude who owned it (kid) thought it was worth at least 1500, so I had to walkdavintosh wrote:Like a pair of M30s singing a duet: Sweet!sbeckman7 wrote:Dropped the exhaust cat-back today. Sounds absolutely wonderful
Too bad you passed on the car with the Saddle Tan interior; I would've been sorely tempted to take that off your hands.
So I've cleared enough space in the garage to order metal. I'm ordering it all at once to knock the price down. They have the round tubing I wanted (1.5 x .095) but not the same thickness in square. The two choices are .090 and .120. I would like to order the .090 to save weight but I'm nay sure if it's strong enough, although I'm assuming .005" difference isn't that much. Maybe one of the more experienced builders could confirm this?
Have you run any simulations to give you an idea for load on each member? I know next to nothing about chassis design, but I can certainly help with strength/mechanics of materials.sbeckman7 wrote:So I've cleared enough space in the garage to order metal. I'm ordering it all at once to knock the price down. They have the round tubing I wanted (1.5 x .095) but not the same thickness in square. The two choices are .090 and .120. I would like to order the .090 to save weight but I'm nay sure if it's strong enough, although I'm assuming .005" difference isn't that much. Maybe one of the more experienced builders could confirm this?
Do you know the difference in weight per linear foot (and how many feet)? That could give you an idea of what kind of weight savings to expect, it may be so small that it'd be worth it to have the added rigidity of the thicker walled tubing. Then again, it could be so much heavier that it'd put odd stresses on the chassis.
If you've already got that model made, I'm sure it'd be reasonably easy (and well worth it even if it's not easy) to plug it into solidworks or some other such CAD program to get an idea of the kinds of stresses you'll need this tubing to tolerate.
Or you could do it by hand
I suppose it wouldn't be awful, but it's been a long time since statics.
Xenocide wrote:
Have you run any simulations to give you an idea for load on each member? I know next to nothing about chassis design, but I can certainly help with strength/mechanics of materials.
Do you know the difference in weight per linear foot (and how many feet)? That could give you an idea of what kind of weight savings to expect, it may be so small that it'd be worth it to have the added rigidity of the thicker walled tubing. Then again, it could be so much heavier that it'd put odd stresses on the chassis.
If you've already got that model made, I'm sure it'd be reasonably easy (and well worth it even if it's not easy) to plug it into solidworks or some other such CAD program to get an idea of the kinds of stresses you'll need this tubing to tolerate.
Or you could do it by hand
I suppose it wouldn't be awful, but it's been a long time since statics.
Sorry to say it but I don't know the answers to any of your questions
I do, however, thank you for bringing a little common sense to my dilemma. The .090 wall thickness is 1.7194 lbs/ft and the .120 tubing is 2.2438 lbs/ft. Using 80 feet of this, it equates to just under 42 lbs of difference between the two, which is not enough in my book to justify the thinner material. With that said, the round tubing will still be .095 wall thickness because I meet or exceed the SCCA regulations as it is.Heading back from Mammoth Lakes tomorrow, can't wait to continue taking the 750 apart...
Also talked to Ryan (my employer) and he said he'd have no problem getting two roll hoops fabbed up. I'll need to change the design a bit due to the increasing radius bends; it'll have 3 bends and two straight sections, like this miata setup:
Also talked to Ryan (my employer) and he said he'd have no problem getting two roll hoops fabbed up. I'll need to change the design a bit due to the increasing radius bends; it'll have 3 bends and two straight sections, like this miata setup:
Hahah nice. I had my fun beforehand ripping it from the car and hearing lots of plastic crack and snap off.graphite wrote:Ah man.. if your gonna do the work to pull an engine like that you at least need to crack the whip and show that bitch who's the boss!!
That's a friend of mine after we pulled the engine from an 89 supra for a transplant to his car. Whipping it hard with the oil dipstick.
Continued removing the wiring harness tonight. I wish I had the luxury of being as slow and thorough as I was with the e28, but it needs to get out of the shop ASAP 
Hoping to only have a mild headache, most of the connectors are different/color labeled somehow... we'll see. I also need to figure out what to keep and what to throw away as it looks like the engine wiring harness is bundled in with the ABS, SRS, other fuses, etc.
Here are all the wires from the engine bay
from left to right: ECU #1, EML control module, ECU #2, and transmission module
Hoping to only have a mild headache, most of the connectors are different/color labeled somehow... we'll see. I also need to figure out what to keep and what to throw away as it looks like the engine wiring harness is bundled in with the ABS, SRS, other fuses, etc.Here are all the wires from the engine bay
from left to right: ECU #1, EML control module, ECU #2, and transmission module