I replaced a section of rotted out exhaust pipe on B6II's franken cat back. the pipe had sprung a leak where the right hanger arm was welded to it. I used the same piece from the Borman6's original Boysen exhaust. Idiot's delight with hand made couplings to graft onto a Bosal 533i muffler. The back of the muffler was punky from sitting, so I covered it with a piece of galvy sheet metal. I used tek screws, #6 x 1/2'' and gooped everything with high temp RTV. I bought brand new bolts and hardware for the flanges. Grade 2 5/16 X 2 1/2 A nut, 2 flat washers and the bolt were 80 cents times 4 for a whopping $ 3.20 There are parts from 3 different catbacks. and a little extra metal to patch it all together. W hen I carried it from the bench to the car, it felt solid. It fit fine and the tips are hanging level. The car is now ready for re-inspection. I replaced the LBJs the 2 previous weekends.
opened up the trunk on the 533 to dry out the water from the massive leak(s)
On another note, I think my battery issue is solved. I finally threw it on a real charger (not just idling in the driveway) overnite, and reinstalled it. After sitting for a week- fired right up! .
New M535 diff mount, new dogbones, new swaybar links front and rear, new swaybar bushings front and rear. Went Powerflex on the bushings. In a do-over, or on a future vehicle, I will do stock rubber bushings. Holee shit it's a tough fit for that stiff poly. Lots of wrangling with lumber-levers and jacks to press the brackets into place.....
Subframe bushings will wait until the winter parking conundrum is over and I can get onto the lift.
Dropped the 88 off at Racewerks for alignment and tire install. Taking tomorrow off to do what I planned to have done yesterday, plus some if my order comes in today.
slammin_e28 wrote:It's probably some condition, but I get all tingly inside!
Yeah, I probably shouldn't get as excited as I do over new parts...
I love getting new parts. I'm like a little kid on Xmas.
I finally got my windows to start rolling up and down. And I went to put in a drivers side interior door handle....only to realize the PO didn't even have the screws in there.....time for a trip to pick and pull to see if anyone didn't yank the screws for the handle
Also, painted the front grilles flat black. Now they don't look so worn.
Installed a new door pillar cover and a new light switch holder assembly (props to Dinan E28 for that one!) So nice having my light switches not falling out constantly.
slammin_e28 wrote:I don't drive it much until I figure out the 15mpg issue.
This sucks. There's another good thing about the Motronic 1.3 in my old E24- at least you get a CEL and a code to tell you what part(s) is(are) smoking crack. I know my Peake tool doesn't code anything on a 1.0- does 1.0 throw error codes at all?
Last edited by rmiddendorf on Mar 01, 2011 8:52 PM, edited 1 time in total.
I complained (politely) to the outfit I bought my coolant sender from (socalmotorsports or some sort) and they promptly sent me a new one! No more indicator light!
slammin_e28 wrote:I don't drive it much until I figure out the 15mpg issue.
This sucks. There's another good thing about the Motronic 1.3 in my old E24- at least you get a CEL and a code to tell you what part(s) is(are) smoking crack. I know my Peake tool doesn't code anything on a 1.0- does 1.0 throw error codes at all?
Don't think so. I have a B35 swap, thus M1.3. No CEL on it though. I'm leaning towards it running in closed loop (really really rich) as the temp gauge doesn't go above 10:00. I've got a VDO temp gauge, but I'm waiting on the sender to come in the mail. Until then....it sits.
slammin_e28 wrote:I don't drive it much until I figure out the 15mpg issue.
This sucks. There's another good thing about the Motronic 1.3 in my old E24- at least you get a CEL and a code to tell you what part(s) is(are) smoking crack. I know my Peake tool doesn't code anything on a 1.0- does 1.0 throw error codes at all?
Don't think so. I have a B35 swap, thus M1.3. No CEL on it though. I'm leaning towards it running in closed loop (really really rich) as the temp gauge doesn't go above 10:00. I've got a VDO temp gauge, but I'm waiting on the sender to come in the mail. Until then....it sits.
Yeah if you don't wire the CEL into the dash you won't magically have it. It was standard on the B35 E24s. Did you swap the diag connector from the old to the new? The new one has more pins in it. If you did convert that you might be able to read the fault code and that may help you trace why your fuel economy is down even without the CEL.
slammin_e28 wrote:I don't drive it much until I figure out the 15mpg issue.
This sucks. There's another good thing about the Motronic 1.3 in my old E24- at least you get a CEL and a code to tell you what part(s) is(are) smoking crack. I know my Peake tool doesn't code anything on a 1.0- does 1.0 throw error codes at all?
Don't think so. I have a B35 swap, thus M1.3. No CEL on it though. I'm leaning towards it running in closed loop (really really rich) as the temp gauge doesn't go above 10:00. I've got a VDO temp gauge, but I'm waiting on the sender to come in the mail. Until then....it sits.
Yeah if you don't wire the CEL into the dash you won't magically have it. It was standard on the B35 E24s. Did you swap the diag connector from the old to the new? The new one has more pins in it. If you did convert that you might be able to read the fault code and that may help you trace why your fuel economy is down even without the CEL.
Hmm....I didn't think to wire the CEL in.
The engine is from an e34, but it was in an e28 before I got it, so the harness was already cut and ready to plug-n-play. I think tomorrow I'll take it to work and see if I can get anything out of it on the scan tool.
Tomorrow I'll look into getting that CEL to work. Thanks!