External links now open in a new browser tab - turn this off in your UCP - Read more here.

Alternate Wiring for Euro Lights

E28 technical advice asked and given! Troubleshooting, modifications and more.
M5ZEALOT
Posts: 1271
Joined: Aug 14, 2007 11:09 PM
Location: San Diego, CA

Alternate Wiring for Euro Lights

Post by M5ZEALOT »

I have had several request for my alternate way to hook up Euro Headlights: This uses factory locking rings which seals bulbs properly.

Let me start by stating this is a method I have devised to suit my needs not duplicate the fatory’s European wiring system. There is a good write up on the M535 registry on how to hook up these lights to work the european way, I suggest you read that post first and make your own decision on which system works for you.

No matter what you decide be assured you will now have far superior lighting than the medieval US sealed beam lights you had. The euro system uses H4 bulbs (unsealed) that can be had in different wattages. The lense also has a unique sharp cut off so light is spread out evenly on the road surface. This may not be new to you since most newer domestic cars have now adopted this technology. US lights usually have a 55 watt low beam filament and a 65 watt high beam. The middle high beam only lights usually have a 55 watt filament. When these lights burn out you have to replace the whole light……with the euro system you just replace the bulb.

Ok just a little more background for those not familiar with the euro system. This is the way they work on european E28s: When you flick your high beams on the center 5 ¾ high beams come on but the 7” low beams stays the same…in low beam mode. The second filament in the bulb is not activated. I guess for some reason engineers thought there will be sufficient lighting in this case. If you have a newer european or domestic car with OEM HID non bi-xenon lights this is also the way they work. I’m not satisfied with this set up.

The US system is something you are familiar with; you flick you high beams and the center high beams come on and then the outer low beams “switch” over to the high beam filament giving you more light! Now I have PIAA extreme white H4 bulbs. (closest product to true HID) The bulb that goes into the 7” lowbeam has two filaments, 80 watts for low beam mode and 110 watts for high but can not untilize the high with the way the wiring harness is set up. This is what I did to get all the watts I paid for.

Most of my modifications were just common sense and not difficult at all. Take the system apart and examine how everything comes together. You will notice the system is very specific and unique to the E28. There are specific locking rings and harness. Pull the boot off the harness and you will see that what is missing is obvious. The female wire connector is missing for the high beam filament. The only wires in the harness are 1) low beam, 2) ground wire, 3) city light.(I didn't include colors of wires in my directions because the harness is pretty self explanatory.) See the picture below:

Image

Here is a picture of a typical H4 bulb. It has 3 prongs and I have labled their role:

Image

Here is a pic of the plug/harness. You can see the wire for the high beam is missing-deleted. We just need to add that in!

Image

I’m sure there are tons of ways to modify the plug but this is the route I choose to make everything look OEM.

1. You will need to take the white plastic base harness connector and drill a hole to accommodate a 16 or 18 gauge wire to power the high beam filament.

Image

2. Pull wire all the way thru and crimp a female connector on the bulb side and male connector to other end.

Image

3. Here is what it looks like on the bulb side.
Image

4. Once a female connector is crimped, push it back into the recessed are of connector. I used electrical epoxy to keep it in place. Make sure it is perfectly even with the other female connectors
Image

Image

You are almost done! Feed the wire right thru the black plug. all the connections of the harness should have male connectors crimped on them and should plug right into the OEM headlight plug. The city light wire should be spliced with the front left parking light + wire so they come on when parking lights are on.

A note on city lights. City lights (Europe & Asia only) are on cars where city law prohibits the use of headlights in city limits at night. Major cities like Tokyo or Berlin are so brightly lit by street lights and neon advertising at night that car headlights are not necessary. City lights basically illuminate the headlight but do not "throw" any light onto the roadway or other drivers/pedestrians. I'm not sure if these laws still apply today but they were in effect at last 10 years ago.

Image


Image

CITY LIGHTS ON- ONLY
Image
HEADLIGHTS AND FOGS ON
Image
FOUR HIGH BEAMS ON - 420 WATTS OF CANDLE POWER!
Image
Hope this was helpful, please let me know if there is anything else I can help with
Last edited by M5ZEALOT on Mar 22, 2008 8:51 AM, edited 5 times in total.
ldsbeaker
Posts: 6133
Joined: Mar 25, 2007 10:14 PM
Location: Slicktop City, AZ
Contact:

Post by ldsbeaker »

Neato!!
Now I know what to do with that harness that came with the lights!!
Kyle in NO
Posts: 17638
Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
Location: Nasty Orleans------> Batten-Rooehjch------>More Souther LA

Post by Kyle in NO »

Exactly! I've done this with all the sets of Euro lights I have had, and the US harness plugs right in! No wiring necessary...
DaRedRocket
Posts: 4285
Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
Location: San Diego, CA
Contact:

Post by DaRedRocket »

Nice, if I new it was that simple when I installed them I wouldn't have done the half-ass way...
M. Holtmeier
Posts: 3036
Joined: Mar 11, 2007 3:06 AM
Location: Josephine, Texas

Re: How to wire Euro lights and utilize all four high beams

Post by M. Holtmeier »

M5ZEALOT wrote: Image
Man! You just have a way with pictures! :up:
M5ZEALOT
Posts: 1271
Joined: Aug 14, 2007 11:09 PM
Location: San Diego, CA

Re: How to wire Euro lights and utilize all four high beams

Post by M5ZEALOT »

grsmonkey wrote:
M5ZEALOT wrote: Image
Man! You just have a way with pictures! :up:
thanks! I actually had to darken this one a little since it was still around 5PM in my parking garage...to show the city lights on. ;)
M5ZEALOT
Posts: 1271
Joined: Aug 14, 2007 11:09 PM
Location: San Diego, CA

Potential FAQ- Alternate Wiring of Euro Lights"

Post by M5ZEALOT »

To forum Admins:

I'd like to have my post considered for transfer to Tech FAQ section. I have been getting a lot of PMs asking for directions and I refer to this post.

Thanks for your consideration ;)
Shawn D.
Beamter
Beamter
Posts: 22128
Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
Location: Alpharetta, GA
Contact:

Re: Potential FAQ- Alternate Wiring of Euro Lights"

Post by Shawn D. »

M5ZEALOT wrote:To forum Admins:

I'd like to have my post considered for transfer to Tech FAQ section. I have been getting a lot of PMs asking for directions and I refer to this post.

Thanks for your consideration ;)
Very nice writeup! I'll transfer it if you say the proper term for those of us who run the site. Hint: it isn't "admin" or "moderator." ;)
Jeremy
Beamter
Beamter
Posts: 15844
Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
Location: Connecticut

Post by Jeremy »

There's no need to modify anything. Get the cap from a 2 light e21 and you'll have all the connections you need. I have a pair sitting around somewhere . . .

Also, it's not advisable to run that much current through the stock US wiring configuration. Standard bulbs would be fine, but high wattage replacement bulbs draw a lot of current for that circuit to handle. 420 watts at 12 volts equals roughly 35 amps to drive those lights properly, 31.2 amps at 13.5 volts. The US system uses 2 8 amp fuses, so you're running 15.6 amps through each. Even if you're somehow not blowing the fuses, you're not getting the light output that you should. The typical solution is to uprate the fuse to 16 amps, which is dangerous as that wasn't the fuse that the system was designed for.

Jeremy
M5ZEALOT
Posts: 1271
Joined: Aug 14, 2007 11:09 PM
Location: San Diego, CA

Post by M5ZEALOT »

Jeremy wrote:There's no need to modify anything. Get the cap from a 2 light e21 and you'll have all the connections you need. I have a pair sitting around somewhere . . .

Also, it's not advisable to run that much current through the stock US wiring configuration. Standard bulbs would be fine, but high wattage replacement bulbs draw a lot of current for that circuit to handle. 420 watts at 12 volts equals roughly 35 amps to drive those lights properly, 31.2 amps at 13.5 volts. The US system uses 2 8 amp fuses, so you're running 15.6 amps through each. Even if you're somehow not blowing the fuses, you're not getting the light output that you should. The typical solution is to uprate the fuse to 16 amps, which is dangerous as that wasn't the fuse that the system was designed for.
Thanks I didn't know that about e21 harness....but I guess for those who don't have them or source them this will still benefit. Yes I know about wiring and different relays which probably should be used. I have had Hella H4 100Watt & 85 Watt bulbs for 20 years in all my BMWs and have never had any issues. I switched to Hella H4's on the M5 the day I took it home from the dealer. I do have different relays and fuses with thicker gauge wiring in my system to handle the extra wattage......just didn't mention it since this post was about harness mods.
Last edited by M5ZEALOT on Mar 23, 2008 1:44 AM, edited 2 times in total.
M5ZEALOT
Posts: 1271
Joined: Aug 14, 2007 11:09 PM
Location: San Diego, CA

Re: Potential FAQ- Alternate Wiring of Euro Lights"

Post by M5ZEALOT »

Shawn D. wrote:
M5ZEALOT wrote:To forum Admins:

I'd like to have my post considered for transfer to Tech FAQ section. I have been getting a lot of PMs asking for directions and I refer to this post.

Thanks for your consideration ;)
Very nice writeup! I'll transfer it if you say the proper term for those of us who run the site. Hint: it isn't "admin" or "moderator." ;)
Oh Shawn......Austin coached me on how to request this and I think he told me the term but I can't remember it. Have to get back to you on that one! :evil:
wkohler
Posts: 50928
Joined: Oct 05, 2006 11:04 PM
Location: Phönix, Arizona, USA
Contact:

Post by wkohler »

Look right between the stars and Shawn's name. I think you'll find what you're looking for.
M5ZEALOT
Posts: 1271
Joined: Aug 14, 2007 11:09 PM
Location: San Diego, CA

Post by M5ZEALOT »

wkohler wrote:Look right between the stars and Shawn's name. I think you'll find what you're looking for.

Oh mighty :banana: BEAMTER!!!!!
Jeremy
Beamter
Beamter
Posts: 15844
Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
Location: Connecticut

Post by Jeremy »

M5ZEALOT wrote:I do have different relays and fuses with thicker gauge wiring in my system to handle the extra wattage......just didn't mention it since this post was about harness mods.
If you aren't mentioning this when telling people about your lighting system, you're doing them a serious disservice. The wiring and relay additions you did are what make your system electrically safe. I'd hate to see someone do your modifications and have a major problem because they weren't made aware of the potential danger. Your harness mods are only one part of your total solution, and the other part is equally important.

Jeremy
Last edited by Jeremy on Dec 12, 2008 7:39 PM, edited 1 time in total.
C.R. Krieger
Posts: 14507
Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
Location: Halfway up the left side of Lake Michigan
Contact:

Post by C.R. Krieger »

Jeremy wrote:
M5ZEALOT wrote:I do have different relays and fuses with thicker gauge wiring in my system to handle the extra wattage......just didn't mention it since this post was about harness mods.
If you aren't mentioning this when telling people about your lighting system, you're doing them a serious disservice. The wiring and relay additions you did are what make your system safe electrically safe. I'd hate to see someone do your modifications and have a major problem because they weren't made aware of the potential danger. Your harness mods are only one part of your total solution, and the other part is equally important.
Agreed. We crash enough E28s as it is. We don't need to burn 'em, too. ;)

FWIW, if you tried the same thing in an old Audi (with no relays in the system), you ended up with a melted headlamp switch. DAMHIK. :roll:
David B
Posts: 520
Joined: Mar 09, 2008 5:43 AM
Location: Savannah, Georgia

Post by David B »

I have a e21 323 to pull parts from so i guess the wiring harness for the lights will work as stated. I know nothing of relays etc. I`ll check for posts on this. How about the wiring from a Bavaria?
quasi
Posts: 280
Joined: May 30, 2007 7:30 PM

Post by quasi »

so how about a how to on. how to wire the relay's. and what wiring need's to be thicker ?. also i have some holders with 2 prong's coming out of the back not 3 ?. tho's are extra ones i found in a box of parts from when i bought the car. any one know whats with that ?. oh and i love your car man looks sweet i hope mine looks like that some day :D
marks
Posts: 396
Joined: May 24, 2007 10:23 PM
Location: SE Alabama

Post by marks »

Can you list the relays and what gauge wiring you used?

My Euros arrived yesterday, I want to start putting them in ASAP.
pcarenthuz
Posts: 59
Joined: Jun 01, 2008 10:47 AM

Post by pcarenthuz »

When I installed H4's and rewired my headlights for my 911 some years ago I maintained the stock wiring for the control side of a PIAA relay and I made up a 10 gauge braided harness to drive the actual H4's. Depending on your current requirements you'll want to find a set of relays that can handle the load. For example, this particular PIAA relay can handle up to 135 watts: http://paceperformance.com/index.asp?Pa ... dID=183945

Wiring a set of relays in is straightforward. A relay is nothing more than a coil that when energized closes a set of contacts. The voltage you apply the coil (in this case turning the headlight switch on), energizes the coil and closes the contacts. When the contacts close, they complete a circuit for your +12vdc which gets applied to your load (in this case your new headlights).

Pat Arnold
downernsp
Posts: 162
Joined: Jul 05, 2008 10:30 PM
Location: Chino,CA

Re: Alternate Wiring for Euro Lights

Post by downernsp »

This is what I mean as fantastic instructions and makes me happy to log in.Instead of all that crap that has nothing to do with CARS great work. :alright:
legendary
Posts: 267
Joined: Oct 09, 2008 8:23 PM
Location: Atlanta, GA
Contact:

great write up - help requested

Post by legendary »

Hello there!

I did not exactly use this to wire my car with the Euro lights...I went a slightly different route...in fact, I had no harnesses, so I had to just set the wiring up to the Euro's using a DMM to figure out hi/lo, etc.

The set I bought had nothing in place for the city light, and of course the local parts stores do not seem to have anything like it in stock.

Can you:
1) Advise what the bulb number is? (4W city bulb or anything does not work, and only pulls up threads like this one)

2) Show how it is setup in the light fixture?

As for wiring, I think I had an extra wire in the Euro harness that went unused - I am assuming that is for the parking light....which is fine. I have also seen something about taking the sidemarker light out and putting it in the headlamp assembly - I took that loose, and did not see anything or way to dismantle that assembly without destroying it...not to mention, it does not seem to be something that would fit in there anyway (brackets) and the bulb would probably be too small.

Can you help? Anyone?
Thanks!
Can you tell me how to get the city light
tdbrewst
Posts: 781
Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
Location: Chandler, AZ

Post by tdbrewst »

Thanks a bunch. You're write up was very helpful and a lot more straight forward than what I'd planned to use originally (which is why it took me about two years to actually do the conversion).

Well, my conversion is finally done and I'm happy with my new lights.

Thanks again,
rustwrks
Posts: 159
Joined: Feb 06, 2009 1:39 PM
Location: california
Contact:

Post by rustwrks »

Nice Article -

Thats exactly what I needed to see. It was pretty funny when the first few parts guys I had try to locate bulbs for the =l style lamps!

I figured a slight well sealed mod would do the trick...

Thanks again
Grande Royal
Posts: 464
Joined: Feb 22, 2008 7:36 AM
Location: Riverton, New Jersey

euro wiring

Post by Grande Royal »

Just installed my euros, and would like to thank you for your information on how to wire everything up. Everything works (love the city lights tied them into the side markers...sweet!) wiring is neat and stock looking. Night and day compared to sealed beams. Kudos!
harrypalmer
Posts: 678
Joined: Jul 25, 2012 12:10 AM
Location: Denver, Colorado

Re:

Post by harrypalmer »

Jeremy wrote:
M5ZEALOT wrote:I do have different relays and fuses with thicker gauge wiring in my system to handle the extra wattage......just didn't mention it since this post was about harness mods.
If you aren't mentioning this when telling people about your lighting system, you're doing them a serious disservice. The wiring and relay additions you did are what make your system electrically safe. I'd hate to see someone do your modifications and have a major problem because they weren't made aware of the potential danger. Your harness mods are only one part of your total solution, and the other part is equally important.

Jeremy
I now this one is old. Never did the "proper" electrical modification on my Euro lamps and I would like to do them the right way. I do appreciate what M5ZEALOT did (nice photos too) but did he ever follow your advice and wrote/post the proper wiring, relays he used on his own car for a safe installation somewhere? I just don't see any of it.

Plus,
Jeremy wrote:Even if you're somehow not blowing the fuses, you're not getting the light output that you should.Jeremy
tig
Posts: 9405
Joined: Mar 18, 2013 6:25 PM
Location: Durango
Contact:

Re:

Post by tig »

Jeremy wrote:There's no need to modify anything. Get the cap from a 2 light e21 and you'll have all the connections you need. I have a pair sitting around somewhere . . .
Jeremy, what's the chance you STILL have a pair sitting around somewhere and would be willing to sell them?

Would anyone know the part # for the E21 cap. Is it the same on ALL E21s?

Is it this? #11? 63121373321

Screenshot
harrypalmer
Posts: 678
Joined: Jul 25, 2012 12:10 AM
Location: Denver, Colorado

Re: Alternate Wiring for Euro Lights

Post by harrypalmer »

tig
Posts: 9405
Joined: Mar 18, 2013 6:25 PM
Location: Durango
Contact:

Re: Alternate Wiring for Euro Lights

Post by tig »

harrypalmer wrote:Charlie, this may help: http://www.wallothnesch.com/abdeckkappe ... 02-11.html
Image

Are we sure that's the right part? I've never seen one of these things in person (I don't have my euro bulbs yet).
harrypalmer
Posts: 678
Joined: Jul 25, 2012 12:10 AM
Location: Denver, Colorado

Re: Alternate Wiring for Euro Lights

Post by harrypalmer »

cek wrote:
harrypalmer wrote:Charlie, this may help: http://www.wallothnesch.com/abdeckkappe ... 02-11.html
Image

Are we sure that's the right part? I've never seen one of these things in person (I don't have my euro bulbs yet).
Only suggesting availability for you in case Jeremy does not respond.
Cannot guarantee if they will fit on your Cibie lights since everything in my car is Hella for the E28 (different size and material really). However, the rear lightbulb socket pictured in the previous and below links are for the E21 low beams so they should work for you) http://www.ecstuning.com/ES172357/ Hope this helps.
tig
Posts: 9405
Joined: Mar 18, 2013 6:25 PM
Location: Durango
Contact:

Re: Alternate Wiring for Euro Lights

Post by tig »

harrypalmer wrote:
cek wrote:
harrypalmer wrote:Charlie, this may help: http://www.wallothnesch.com/abdeckkappe ... 02-11.html
Image

Are we sure that's the right part? I've never seen one of these things in person (I don't have my euro bulbs yet).
Only suggesting availability for you in case Jeremy does not respond.
Cannot guarantee if they will fit on your Cibie lights since everything in my car is Hella for the E28 (different size and material really). However, the rear lightbulb socket pictured in the previous and below links are for the E21 low beams so they should work for you) http://www.ecstuning.com/ES172357/ Hope this helps.
Thanks; I'm doing a euro conversion so will be putting the Cibie's in Maytag. This query is for Euro lights.
Post Reply