M30b35 build, NA and eventually FI advice

[Pronk]

I am in the process of dissassembling and refurbishing M30B35. It is going to be swapped into an e28 or e30 in the future. But for now the engine is in a mate's workshop. I have removed the alternator, intake, exhaust etc. I am waiting to split the block because he does not have a space in the workshop that is clean enough were I can store the block, head etc. Besides he rents it with some other people who I don't know, so I'd rather keep the block sealed for now untill we've found another workshop for us both which will remain clean for mostly storage. I want to run it NA after the initial swap for a while but I want to future proof it for +- 300whp with forced induction. I am not hunting for the ultimate performance out of this engine but rather a reliable and street driveable output. I am not quite sure what is necessary/unnecessary to achieve this output but combining the maintenance and build I was thinking to do:-New timing assembly
-New gaskets (everything)
-Replacing all lower end bearings
-Aftermarket cam (possible to get a bit of lope while maintaining relatively normal driveability? Which duration? I like a strong midrange instead of top end power)
-Aftermarket valve springs if cam is installed
-Intake/exhaust gasket match and little bit of polishing
-New valve stem seals
-Head polish (combustion chamber)
-Valves lapped
-Light E34 M5 flywheel (got it with the engine+gearbox)
-Custom headers (probably necessary for fitment)
-Injector flow test and clean (Stock for NA, FI replacement not yet clear)
-Not sure if i should have the block and or head ground. 
-Block, head  will be cleaned and painted, valve cover will be powdercoatedIdk whether I need a chip or new MAF. I've gotten the original MAF and ECU from a 89 735i. I think the ECU was 179, not sure though I would have to look in the parts bin. This is the very early stage on this project but I wonder whether this is realistic, I am missing things or if there are things I should look out for.
I have scoured some forums but am by no means experienced with engine building so feel free to correct me if i say something stupid.

 

 

[turbodan]

If you like strong midrange power the stock cam is unbeatable.  A more aggressive cam will trade this off to push the torque curve higher.  The additional lift, quicker opening and closing ramps increase the strain on the valvetrain.  This is my favorite thing about boost, you can make plenty of power without compromising reliability.  The stock cam and springs are mild and will run for a very long time with proper maintenance.  High strung NA builds never meet expectations and do not last long. 

I would not go any further with Motronic at this point.  Go with standalone from the jump and you will be far better off.  If it ever comes to boost, the primary obstacle is already out of the way.  Even if you leave it NA, something like Megasquirt will run much better than Motronic.  Tuning is a challenge but there are a resources here for that.

The head and block could benefit from a light cut to ensure flatness.  They're probably flat within a few thousandths, but I bet they could be flatter.

[Pronk]

If you like strong midrange power the stock cam is unbeatable.  A more aggressive cam will trade this off to push the torque curve higher.  The additional lift, quicker opening and closing ramps increase the strain on the valvetrain.  This is my favorite thing about boost, you can make plenty of power without compromising reliability.  The stock cam and springs are mild and will run for a very long time with proper maintenance.  High strung NA builds never meet expectations and do not last long. 

I would not go any further with Motronic at this point.  Go with standalone from the jump and you will be far better off.  If it ever comes to boost, the primary obstacle is already out of the way.  Even if you leave it NA, something like Megasquirt will run much better than Motronic.  Tuning is a challenge but there are a resources here for that.

The head and block could benefit from a light cut to ensure flatness.  They're probably flat within a few thousandths, but I bet they could be flatter.

Clear, thank you. Would replacing the springs and rockers be advised to make the valvetrain bulletproof? I was looking in the realm of Ireland Engineerings's HD rockers and set of HD springs/retainers. 

[turbodan]

HD springs are going to be heavier than stock, no need or benefit unless you're running a more aggressive cam. Heavy duty rockers couldn't hurt.