Now for our listeners at home, some might ask, "Well whaddya do if'm ya wanna put one o' dem der B34 housins on dat der B35 block?"Shawn D. wrote:If you don't like the oil in the filter housing draining out, then go for it!
The B34 doesn't have the drainback passage that the B35 does, so if you put a B35 housing on a B34, the housing will remain full of oil when you change the filter.
Anyone who has trouble with the E28 era oil filter needs, just once, to change the filter in an early M30, say pre 77 or so with the bottom bolt steel canister and a spring you had to compress while lying on your back. Once with that and they would never again complain about the E28 type.wkohler wrote:The B35 filter housing *seems* better. I never saw anything wrong with the earlier style, but apparently there are some people who can't keep liquid in a cup.
Why the Elring headgasket over the Victor? I searched and found other threads where others said Elring, but nobody said why. Totally willing to follow the advice, but would like to know if it's just a quality thing or some sort of specific failure.wkohler wrote:Stock head bolts and an Elring headgasket. Buy the Victor Reinz kit for everything else, but you will have to buy the exhaust gaskets with the heat shields separately. The kit comes with just standard gaskets for some reason. I guess they're assuming we all have thermal reactors or something.
A quick question:cek wrote:Acquired another harness. This one from an E34. It is in far better shape than the original E32 harness and will give me a lot more confidence.
No exactly correct. 5 and 7 series B35 bracketry is different, while the 6 series B35 is the same as B34.ahab wrote:No, the mounting points on the B35 oil pan for the power steering pump and alternator bracket stuff is different. The alternator may work (can't remember) but the PS pump and bracket are wider on the B35. AC side is the same.cek wrote:Are the accessory mounts (e.g. for A/C, PS, Alternator) the same between the B34 and B35 blocks?
I mounted it right in the glovebox where the original ECU was, the E32 harness is long enough.BuzzBomb wrote: A quick question:
Are you going to mount the ECU in the engine compartment by the battery or are you going to run all the wiring for the fuse box back through the firewall?
Either are not so good ideas. Get an SETA or '89 635 harness to save you a lot of work, since you'll be doing a lot of harness unraveling with an e34 version.
This is the plan. I've started taking it apart, but got sidetracked by Maytag. Now that Maytag apparently needs no more love, I can start back on this project.wkohler wrote:There is plenty of length in that harness and the best thing is to take it all apart, run the wires where they need to go, tie out what isn't needed and re-wrap. Cleanest install.
I hugely disagree. I'm using the harness from an '89 635 and everything is exactly where it should be for an w28, including the correct firewall grommet. This is by far, the cleanest install.wkohler wrote:There is plenty of length in that harness and the best thing is to take it all apart, run the wires where they need to go, tie out what isn't needed and re-wrap. Cleanest install.
Grow up Kohler. You act like the earth would spin off its axis if anyone disagreed with you. I didn't call you an asshole or any thing, I just disagreed. People are allowed a different opinion. Deal with it.wkohler wrote:I strenuously object.
What the fuck does it matter? He doesn't have an E24 harness. He's got the E34 harness. The cleanest way to install the E34 harness is to do what I said. It reaches in the car and its fine. Besides, the E24 harness still has the round C101 so you have to make an adapter harness or adapt an E28 C101. If I was going to do this myself, which I never, ever will, I'd use the E24 one.
Seriously, if I said BMW made the E28, you'd say I was wrong.
